As we discovered in Part 1, after centuries of eclipse due to the upheavals brought about by the Europeans, surfing was gradually reborn in Hawaii at the turn of the 20th century. Thanks to local and international pioneers, it enjoyed a new lease of life, particularly in Waikiki, where it became the symbol of a laid-back lifestyle. In this second part of our brief history of surfing, we explore the resurgence of surfing, the decisive influence of iconic figures such as Duke Kahanamoku, and the innovations that have transformed the sport into a truly global culture.
The Beach Boys and the surf revolution
In Waikiki, the "beach boys" have become iconic figures for tourists. These versatile guides offer a variety of services, from surf instruction to rescue, and embody the laid-back lifestyle associated with surfing. Their influence helps establish surfing as a popular leisure activity, with informal arrangements often based on friendship and conviviality.
Duke Kahanamoku, Waikiki's famous beach boy, played a crucial role in popularizing surfing.
In 1920, he met Tom Blake, a young sports enthusiast who was to be greatly influenced by him. Once in Hawaii, Blake introduced major innovations such as the hollow board and the centerboard, making surfing easier. Back in California, Blake revolutionized the sport with his Hollow Board, and San Onofre became the place to be for Californian surfers, who developed an exclusive and sophisticated surf culture.
The materials revolution
After the Second World War, surfing underwent a radical transformation thanks to the ingenuity of Bob Simmons, a visionary who revolutionized board design. He combined his knowledge of hydrodynamics with the use of modern materials such as fiberglass, plywood and foam. This combination, known as the "sandwich technique", resulted in higher-performance boards. In 1952, another Californian pioneer, Dale Velzy, opened a shaping workshop with Hap Jacobs. Velzy's flagship model, dubbed the "Pig Board", was a huge success and marked the birth of the "hot-dog" style of surfing, where maneuverability became paramount, enabling surfers to tackle all kinds of waves.
A veritable race for innovation began to create boards that were ever lighter and easier to handle. Hobie Alter, another surfer and entrepreneur, introduced the use of polyurethane, a material developed with the help of chemist Gordon Clark, enabling the manufacture of foam blocks ready for shaping. Polyurethane quickly established itself as the ideal material, making boards more affordable and democratizing surfing, particularly in California.
Innovation in neoprene wetsuits
Another major post-war breakthrough was the advent of neoprene wetsuits. Although Jack O'Neill was not the inventor of this technology, he stood out for his ability to innovate and market the product. He launched a hard-hitting advertising campaign with the slogan "It's always summer inside", highlighting the effectiveness of wetsuits for keeping warm in colder waters. In 1970, O'Neill introduces the full-body wetsuit, covering the entire body with the exception of the head, hands and feet, making surfing accessible all year round, even in colder conditions.
The shortboard revolution and new materials
From the late 1960s onwards, another innovation shook up the world of surfing: the appearance of shorter boards, or shortboards.
These boards make it easier for surfers to get into the wave tube and perform more radical maneuvers. Progressively, additional daggerboards are added to the boards, increasing from two to four, to offer greater stability and control.
Today, the surf industry is experiencing a new surge in creativity, with wooden boards making a strong comeback, as well as the emergence of boards made from recycled materials, reflecting a growing environmental awareness in modern surfing.
