Surfing, today seen as an emblematic activity of freedom and connection with the ocean, has deep and varied roots. Originating in Polynesia, it has crossed the ages and continents to become the popular sport we know today. Let's travel back in time to discover how surfing evolved from its first practitioners in the Pacific Ocean to its modern renaissance in Hawaii.
The first signs of surfing
The history of surfing is as ancient as it is mysterious. The first humans to use boats at sea undoubtedly discovered that waves could either facilitate or complicate their navigation. The tradition of the first surfboards can be traced back to objects such as the "caballito" in Peru.
However, the modern history of surfing is closely linked to Polynesia, particularly Hawaii. Unlike Peru, where surfing was mainly linked to fishing, in Hawaii it was transformed into a recreational activity.
In 1776, during James Cook's expedition aboard the Résolue, Joseph Banks observed Hawaiians surfing waves with boards for the first time. On their passage to Tahiti, he wrote: " ...In the midst of these breakers swam 10 or 12 Indians, who, whenever a wave broke near them, divided underneath with infinite ease, rising on the other side; but their chief amusement was provided by the stern of an old canoe, with that before them, they swam to the outermost breach, then one or two entered it and opposing the rounded end to the breaking wave rushed in with incredible rapidity..."
This encounter marked the first European documentation of surfing, revealing to Westerners a practice deeply rooted in local customs. M?'ohi oral tradition is replete with tales detailing the art of surfing the waves, whether on boards, light pirogues or by clinging to small reed floats, as practiced by the inhabitants of Rapa-nui (Easter Island).
The making of a surfboard was a major event in Hawaiian culture. Two types of board were used: the Olo, reserved for the nobility and carved from wiliwili wood, and the alaia, intended for the common people and made from Koa wood. A series of rituals, the most important of which was the Makahiki blessing, marked the consecration of the board. Unfortunately, the arrival of the Europeans also brought devastating changes: the spread of disease, the introduction of firearms and social transformations led to a gradual decline in traditional surfing.
Waikiki, surfing's nerve center
At the end of the 19th century, with the annexation of Hawaii by the United States, Hawaiian culture underwent a radical transformation. The indigenous population was greatly reduced, and traditions, including surfing, were in decline. In Waikiki, however, a few surfers continue to practice, attracting the attention of foreign visitors.
The crucial turning point came with writer Jack London's arrival in Hawaii in 1907. Seeing surfers in Waikiki, London immediately recognized the activity's potential. He enthusiastically described his experiences in an article, sparking a growing interest in surfing. In the same year, journalist Alexander Hume Ford and George Freeth, a good Waikiki surfer, play decisive roles in the surfing renaissance. Ford founded the Outrigger Canoe & Surf Club to promote the sport, while Freeth, in California, brought surfing to a wider public with his demonstrations.
