California youth shaped by surfing
Originally from San Diego, Greg Noll discovered surfing on the beaches of Manhattan Beach. As a troubled teenager, he found the sport an escape and a way of life that fascinated him. Attracted by the stories of Hawaii's surfers, he decided to join California's surf pioneers as they explored the famous Makaha waves.
Greg Noll quickly made a name for himself with his imposing physique and iconic style, recognizable by his black-and-white striped shorts. This look, coupled with his bold build and temperament, earned him the nickname "Da Bull".
Discovering the North Shore and exploring Waimea
In the 1950s, Greg Noll and a few other adventurers pushed the boundaries of surfing by exploring Oahu's North Shore. At the time, Waimea Bay was considered a dangerous, almost impassable spot. But for Noll, the challenge was irresistible. His sessions on Waimea's massive waves helped establish the North Shore as a place of pilgrimage for surfers from all over the world.
The myth of the 1969 wave
December 4, 1969 remains a memorable date in surfing history. On that day, a storm in the North Pacific created gigantic waves at Makaha. Greg Noll decided to launch himself into what would be considered the biggest wave ever surfed at the time. Although no photos exist to immortalize the moment, the testimonies of surfers on the beach are enough to fuel the myth.
This day represents the pinnacle of Noll's career and one of the most told stories in surf culture.
A career marked by the art of shaping
Alongside his exploits on the waves, Greg Noll made a name for himself as a shaper. He opened a surf store where he designed boards for big waves. His mastery of materials and techniques contributed to the evolution of longboards and their return to popularity in the 1980s.
Despite the closure of his store in the late 1970s, he remained active in the field, concentrating on the manufacture of custom boards.
A lasting legacy in surf culture
Greg Noll is not only a legend for his performances on the water, but also for his role in the popularization and evolution of surfing. His contribution to shaping and his audacity in the waves have inspired several generations. Today, the nickname "Da Bull" is inseparable from the origins of big-wave surfing.
