After a night arrival at anchor, it is in the early morning - wake up at 5.30 am for the surfers - that the trio composed of Aurel, Ewen and Ronan - decides to set off to discover this long awaited spot. And they are not at the end of their peine?! To reach the spot located 3 km as the crow flies from their anchorage, it's a whole obstacle course that they have to accomplish: get out of the boat with the dinghy, cross a bay, go down to the beach, walk in the tundra and then in the river bed at the foot of a huge glacier in very cold water, climb the rocks between each wave that comes ashore and then pass one or two rivers in paddle, all loaded with photo and video equipment and three surfboards..
If they had spotted the spot on the sattelite map, they didn't yet know if they could access it and the result of the races, it looks like a good galley. But the place is worth it, there's a nice straight, with swells every day, the waves, the colour of the water and the scenery are amazing
It is finally after several hours of marching that the Lost in The Swell team arrives on site. It's one o'clock in the afternoon and everyone is already exhausted, tired and freezing cold. Equipped with big 6 mm thick wetsuits specifically designed by Oxbow with an integrated hood, Aurel and Ewen are having a blast. Exhausted, but happy, they follow one session after another under the watchful eye of Ronan, the team's cameraman.
For 9 hours, in static, he filmed the two surfers, in the humidity and cold, fortunately protected by his gore-tex underlay, obtained on the Brest Atlantique one month before. After a nap, Aurel and Ewen go back there again, until exhaustion. "The spot is indecent for a surfer, there are too many waves". It's finally time to go home, it's 8pm and they've been surfing all day.
"There was a lot of humidity and rain. In 7 days, we had one hour of sunshine. The setting was beautiful, the colour of the water incredible, but I barely had time to film when half a ray of sunshine came through the clouds. It's very frustrating not to have been able to film more than the action of the surf. When it rained, I took fewer pictures and when I filmed, I had to have the wave from start to finish. It was less adventurous and quantitative for them, especially since they were exhausted, with the thicker, therefore heavier wetsuit. For 9 hours, I stayed static while filming. I had to re-focus because my camera was so fogged up. After two or three hours, I couldn't see what I was shooting."
