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Preparing for What Happens After the Fall
In big-wave surfing, performance isn't limited to the path taken along the wave face. When a surfer falls, they may be thrown into the air, be struck by several metric tons of moving water, or remain submerged beneath the breaking waves.
It was these situations that nine athletes focused on during their training from October 31 to November 6, 2026, in Nazaré. Joining Justine Dupont, Kai Lenny, and Lucas Chianca were Pedro Vianna, Natxo Gonzalez, Lucas Fink, Carlos Burle, Dominique Charrier, and Andrew Cotton.
The goal of this Red Bull training camp was to develop physical and mental responses tailored to the situations encountered in big waves, in preparation for the 2026?2027 winter season.
The Trampoline: A Way to Learn How to Control Falls
The first part of this training: mastering body control in the air.
Under the guidance of Trennon Paynter, a former Olympic freestyle skier, the snowboarders trained on large trampolines to improve their balance and reflexes when off-balance.
The progressive exercises focused in particular on rotations and changes in position. A special harness and a specially designed board simulated some of the challenges of surfing maneuvers. The goal is not just to pull off aerial tricks, but to have more points of reference when a wave suddenly throws the surfer off course.
Mobility and Physical Endurance Under Pressure
Training continued with Rapha Romano, a specialist in functional movement. Drawing inspiration from natural gymnastics and Brazilian jiu-jitsu, among other sources, the exercises combined mobility, balance, strength training, and coordination.
Some sequences required the athletes to keep moving and making decisions despite fatigue and physical exertion. This approach aims to develop the surfer?s adaptability, which is particularly tested in the impact zone, where the waves break with the greatest force.
Apnea: A Practice in Breathing and Stress Management
The third focus of the course was on prolonged immersion situations. Under the guidance of João "Jojo" Parisot, a freediving specialist, the participants performed exercises in breathing, underwater movement, and stress management.
The study focused, in particular, on tolerance to increased levels of carbon dioxide in the body and on the ability to remain calm when the urge to breathe becomes overwhelming.
For Andrew Cotton, this training is similar to the demands of big-wave surfing: after intense exertion, your heart rate is elevated just when a fall might force you to stay underwater.
The goal, therefore, is not merely to increase the duration of apnea, but to better manage physiological and mental reactions in a challenging situation. These exercises are always supervised by specialists, as apnea training itself carries risks.
Nazaré, a place where preparation really pays off
On December 13, 2025, during the Nazaré Big Wave Challenge, Lucas Chianca suffered a particularly violent fall. Thrown into the air before being swept under a wave, the Brazilian remained submerged for nearly 30 seconds, according to Red Bull?s account. He was then rescued by Sebastian Steudtner.
This episode serves as a reminder that safety is an essential aspect of the sport, just as much as reading the waves, mastering the board, or organizing rescue efforts.
As the big Atlantic swells approach, the Nazaré training camp illustrates the wide range of skills required of big-wave surfers. Working on reflexes, movement, and breathing does not eliminate the dangers of this sport, but it is part of the preparation needed to face them.
