A more accessible descent
The plans only provide for a simple access door to the cabin, I don't find that practical and decide to build a real downhill with a removable hood. This opening in the deckhouse will facilitate access to the mast foot, and will make sail installation operations more comfortable.
Before cutting the opening
With the cover in place
The 2-panel door
The reinforcements of the deckhouse
For this modification, a part of the deckhouse and the supporting structure must be cut out. That's why I laminated the deckhouse on both sides. I install the frame of this descent including profiled wooden parts that will ensure the waterproofness and the installation of the cover. To hold it in place, it will be equipped with cleats that will fit into housings installed in the frame. The two-part door is sealed with pins. Despite the installation of drained grooves at the bottom of the door, I can't make it completely waterproof.
Windows for silhouette and ventilation
To refine my Marauder's silhouette, I decided to place tapered portholes on each side of the deckhouse as seen on several small cruisers. I place good quality polycarbonate panels in a wooden frame with rebate and flat spots on the inside of the cabin. The fixing is done by a flexible gluing, because I don't want to use the classic commercial nuts usually provided for that.
Opening in the deckhouse for the deck hatch
A small deck hatch is also installed for cabin ventilation on the front side of the deckhouse.
Coating before painting
Painting: not the most exciting phase...
This is a major step in the work. To paint the hull, I have to turn the boat over again. My installation with ratchet straps is fine. If lifting the boat is not difficult, the lowering phase on its seas is a little more complicated, because the ratchet system is not designed to gently release the tension of the straps... The boat again upside down, I am aware of my past mistakes when gluing the deckhouse to the ceiling. I would have been much better, the boat upside down. Experience is something you can learn!
The laser level to trace the flotation
To draw the waterline, I use a laser site level after lifting the boat and placing it well horizontally. My room being too small, I place the laser in the garden and use it through the windows.
Through the garden windows for the port side
I coat the entire surface of the hull before applying the printing paint. A black tie is painted slightly above the waterline, an antifouling is also applied, although I do not plan to leave the boat in the water permanently. I choose a classic dark blue for the hull and a slightly off-white for the rest, decks, cockpit, deckhouse and cabin.
Paint, sand, repaint...
A nice shiny finish
An anti-slip paint will be applied to part of the deck, cockpit floor and deckhouse.
The ballast installed at the bottom of the hull
80 kg of ballast
The ballast must be installed in the keel salmon. I make polystyrene models of the different elements, then make the plaster moulds. The lead ballast will be cast in four parts, weighing 80 kg. I use recovered lead that I melt in my garden to limit harmful fumes.
The ballast in 4 parts
80 kg!
Ordering and receiving the rigging
The rigging was ordered from AG+ in the vicinity of La Rochelle. This supplier provided me with good equipment, I only regret that he did not really advise me, especially for the standing rigging. This would have saved me from modifying the guy eyelets that were not the right length. The trailer purchased second-hand fills its first service and is used by me to transport the mast home. I take advantage of this outing to make a detour through the tip of the smoke in a bad weather.
