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The essentials: a few bags, a few boxes and off you go!
When you live in a house, it's not easy to "synthesize" your life into a few bags or boxes to keep on board. In addition to tools, deck fittings, spare parts, first-aid kit, sea equipment and " in case we take this, in case we take that "You also need to take along the essentials for everyday life. Personal belongings go hand in hand with the soldering set and emergency generator. And make sure that everything is in its (right) place, especially when the weather heats up, of course!
Clothes, books, toiletries, computers, chargers, backpacks, folding bikes ... watercolor supplies (now's the time!) musical instruments (same reason as for watercolors) bathroom linen, "household" linen (carefully vacuum-packed), supplies... once all this junk has been stowed on board, it's time to think about setting sail.
When the weather meets the scheduled date.
Weather, planets, stars, calendar: when everything aligns perfectly, it's time to weigh anchor. Last year, when we sailed around Ireland and made a few stops in Scotland, we organized a farewell party with friends and family. But the organization of this farewell party, although a very pleasant moment, tends to be the small grain of sand in the cogs of the organization of a sailing departure. This year, we opted for anticipation. We had the pleasure of doing the equivalent of this famous farewell party in several installments, according to the visits and therefore, in several "pots".
The day of summer and the Fête de la Musique, June 21, 2025, saw us cast off at 6pm, when we were ready, accompanied by the sound of the concerts that kicked off the festivities. As luck would have it, the weather forecast kept its promise throughout our crossing of the Bay of Biscay. We got off to a flying start with a 3 to 4 beaufort westerly wind. South of Groix, after rounding the Pointe des Chats, slightly rough seas awaited us.
No matter how much you love the sea and own a sailboat, sailing is more than just a passion - it's a job that requires a lot of skill. In spite of a keen sense of the sea, in the event of a breakdown, you need to be autonomous and have all the on-board tools that go with it.
We've been preparing for this departure for months. In addition to refitting and refitting the boat, we also had to simplify our lives. Sorting, donating, selling, throwing away, tidying up, managing administrative tasks, making lists, shopping and, in my case (as if that wasn't enough), rehabilitating. Because of back problems, I could barely walk 6 weeks before departure. A month before, I told them: " In a month, I'll be sailing! "And I kept my promise. With a combination of medication, physiotherapy sessions, physiotherapy and balneotherapy, sheathing and enforced rest, I now have a back that's (almost) as good as new.
In short, we rounded the Pointe des Chats and finally got our first breath of the open sea.
Disconnect...
The days at sea have gently followed one another. All the stress and hubbub of the last few days calmed down to make way for daily life at sea, contemplation and the rotation of day and night watches.
First stop: La Coruña
Until we approached our first stopover: La Coruña. It's now Tuesday, June 24, and we've covered around 360 miles. The north-easterly wind suddenly picked up late in the night as we approached the coast: a venturi effect, customary on this coast, with grey, threatening weather. Fortunately, once we had passed el cabo Prior , we were in the clear, and were able to moor calmly in the port of La Coruña.
The welcome at the marina was very kind, the shower much appreciated and the first tapas widely tasted. With a westerly tilt forecast for almost 48 hours, we took the opportunity to rest and stroll around this pretty, lively Galician town.
El Cabo Finisterre
Thursday June 26, the westerly trend eases off sharply during the night, before shifting from west over Cape Finisterre to northwest from Vigo.
We therefore opt to round Cape Finisterre in the calm, so as to be able to take advantage of the Portuguese trade winds which will carry us southwards. The setting sun is incandescent and the night ahead is black and full of stars.
A good two hours before Cape Finisterre, the magical dawn reveals high cliffs interspersed with valleys modestly cloaked in a thick morning mist. A cameo of parma gradually gives way to a golden pink. The sun spreads its dazzling rays over the cliffs.
Cabo Finisterre is here. I celebrate the sight comfortably seated in front of a hearty breakfast. When the captain wakes up, a light north-westerly breeze picks up timidly, but allows us to stop the engine and head straight for the Cies Islands.
Anchorage in the Cies Islands
A beautiful tack and a few hours later, our anchor sinks in the crystal-clear water off Playa Roda. We disembarked in the dinghy and, in the middle of the eucalyptus trees and almost Mediterranean vegetation, we were called to order by the island's guardians: as a nature reserve, dogs are forbidden here... I admit, we knew that, but we were hoping to be able to give our mascot just a little trip ashore, sight unseen, sound unheard. A short swim in the delightfully clear, soft water and we're back on board.
Last leg: all schuss along the Portuguese coast
The next day, Saturday June 28, our departure from the anchorage coincides with the arrival of small ferries full of tourists and motorboats: just what we needed! Unfortunately, we don't have time for sightseeing anyway, even though we're keen to visit every little ria in Galicia.
This idyllic anchorage really gave us the feeling of an enchanted interlude during this convoy mode sailing. Next time, I promise, we'll stay longer... We pass the impressive Cabo Silleiro and head south.
The Portuguese border is marked, as so often, by a river whose mouth we glimpse before being enveloped, at sunset, by a fog as dense as it is disquieting. We pass the port of Lexoes and Porto without seeing anything of the coast.
All night and most of the following day, we sailed in absorbent cotton, straining our eyes to keep 360° watch around the boat. We observe the occasional fishing vessel or cargo ship on the AIS, but it's a collision with the small Portuguese inshore fishing boats that we fear
Peniche, new final destination
In the late afternoon, the fog gradually lifts, as does the Portuguese trade wind, which is now pushing us straight towards the port of Péniche. With the port of Nazaré just off the coast, it won't be long before the sun sets on Sunday June 29. We tie up at midnight in the port of Peniche.
Our flight to Nantes takes off from Lisbon on the following Wednesday, July 2. A place on a buoy awaits us at the port of Seixal, on the Tagus, further south. But the weather forecast for Monday, June 30, calls for a fairly steady breeze, and a fairly rough 45-mile sail to Cascais, at the mouth of the Tagus.
This means that July 1 will be devoted to sailing up the Tagus to Lisbon, dropping Oban off at a kennel north of the city (by cab?), then mooring the boat in Seixal and tidying up and cleaning. We don't even have a solution yet for getting from the anchorage to the only pontoon so that we can catch the first ferry to Lisbon and be on time for the plane ... Quite a logistical challenge!
Finally, the Péniche harbour master offers us a berth, albeit a couple, but very well placed in the harbour, and a Frenchman living with his family aboard his catamaran gives us a friendly assurance that he'll keep an eye on the boat in our absence: sold! We stay in Peniche, 45 miles north of our original destination.
We find a kennel outside Péniche, with someone coming to collect Oban from the port the next morning. This arrangement allows us to "rest" for a while. On July 1, once Oban was in safe hands, we took the bus to Lisbon in the afternoon to enjoy an evening and a night in the Portuguese capital.
The hazards of sea travel
Initially, we had secured our stopover by reserving a buoy in Seixal and opting for a canine pension in Lisbon, all the while aware of the surprises, setbacks and other hazards of travelling by sea.
On July 17, 2025, we'll be back aboard Galaad for the rest of the voyage, but in the meantime, we're more than satisfied with this first leg of our convoy, and within 40 miles of our original destination...
