Up the river
One of the special features of the Guadiana River, the natural border between Spain and Portugal, is that it is deep and safe enough to navigate. Make sure, however, that you have an air draught of less than around 18 meters to be able to pass under the bridge linking Spain and Portugal. For our part, we passed through at low tide, just to reassure ourselves. It is possible to sail up the Guadiana for at least twenty miles to Alcoutim in Portugal. Entering the river in a southerly swell, the bar can be quite impressive, but when the ocean is calm there's no particular danger.
A fairly substantial current
As you sail upstream on the Guadiana, the tidal currents are substantial, and it is strongly recommended that you go with them. The advantage of navigating the Guadiana is that you can drop anchor almost anywhere as you approach the banks. The water is about 5 meters deep. Once the anchor is in the mud, which holds well, the feeling is special: the water flows peacefully over the hull. It's the first time we've experienced such silence on a boat.
Small pontoons are also available for docking. Occasionally, the wind picks up and you can set sail for an even calmer river experience. We wait a few hours for the tide to turn, then head upstream.
A peaceful climate
A community of travelers has decided to anchor year-round on the river, and we understand. The advantages are not insignificant: the water is fresh, the climate is good, there are no swells and the surrounding villages are welcoming. One of the advantages of cruising on the Guadiana is the tranquillity that reigns. The river's calm waters invite you to relax, far from the crowded anchorages and jet-skiing of the coast. The downside is that summer is very hot.
Between two countries
Once the ship is anchored in Alcoutim, you'll have the chance to live between two countries. You can take the dinghy to either Spain or Portugal. Soak up the local atmosphere, enjoy Portuguese cuisine or Spanish tapas. In summer, a tirolienne connects the two countries between Alcoutim and Sanlúcar de Guadiana - a must for thrill-seekers! It is possible to travel upstream from the village of Alcoutim, but the navigation is less signposted and more risky.
So the Guadiana is much more than just a border between Spain and Portugal, it's a real experience. And if you sail past it on your way to Lagos, for example, you'd be foolish not to.
