Rigging maintenance is crucial to the safety, longevity and performance of your sailboat. As winter approaches, the question of winterizing arises for every sailboat owner. Should you dismast or leave the mast in place? How do you protect sails, maneuvers and rigging accessories from humidity, UV rays and corrosion? This requires precise steps, from disarming sails to careful inspection of standing and running rigging components.
Inspection of standing rigging: essential checks
The standing rigging, comprising shrouds, lower shrouds, cap shrouds, backstays and stays, carries heavy loads. These stainless steel cables are subject to stress and fatigue phenomena that accumulate over time. Regular inspection, even without dismasting, is crucial to avoid accidents.

Inspection stages :
- Visual inspection of crimps check cable terminations for signs of corrosion or corroding. Cracks or broken strands are clear indicators that replacement is necessary.
- Turnbuckle control loosen turnbuckles slightly to identify friction or seizure points. Apply a zinc- or molybdenum-based anti-seizing paste to prevent thread corrosion.
- Chainplate inspection check chainplate shafts for play or deformation. It's a good idea to dismantle any protective devices (chains or sheaths) to carry out a complete visual inspection of the deck fixings.
- Arrowhead control inspection of shrouds: inspect shafts and fasteners, and check that no shrouds are rubbing abnormally. If marks appear, they may indicate incorrect tension or adjustment.
As a general rule, standing rigging should be replaced every 10 to 12 years, depending on the intensity of use of the yacht and sailing conditions, particularly strong winds and long-distance sailing.
Disarming common maneuvers: an essential step
The halyards, sheets, topping lift and vang must be dismantled for wintering. Prolonged exposure to UV rays and humidity significantly reduces their lifespan.

Maneuver removal techniques :
- Using messengers to replace a halyard or manoeuvre spinning in a mast, attach a messenger (a thin rope about twice the height of the mast) to the halyard. This allows the messenger to be hoisted in place of the halyard, making it easier to reassemble after cleaning or replacement.
- Rope marking every maneuver must be precisely labeled for efficient reassembly. A mistake in rope routing can lead to unwanted friction or malfunctions when sailing. Take photos before removing them for visual reference. If your halyards are reversible (both ends can be used), remember to reverse them regularly. This balances the wear and tear along the entire length of the rope, rather than always stressing the same portion.
- Cleaning the halyards to remove salt: Salt is the number one enemy of ropes. To desalinate halyards, soak them in a bathtub or large container of fresh water for several hours. If they are very dirty, add a small amount of mild soap. Some even run them through the washing machine with fabric softener.
Cleaning sails and maneuvers: prolonging the life of textiles
Over time, a sailboat's sails are subjected to numerous stresses that compromise both longevity and performance. The main enemies of sails are UV rays, scuffing and dinginess. These accelerated wear factors can have serious consequences if they are not anticipated. Wintering is therefore the ideal time to carry out a thorough inspection and maintenance of your sails before storing them.

- Straps and eyelets check the attachment points (head, tack, sheet) for wear and tear.
- Seams inspect the main and secondary seams, especially in areas subject to darning.
- Edge and fall make sure that the drop and edge nerves are in good condition and that the cleats are working properly.
- Fasteners and bolts : On battened or furling sails, check the bolt ropes and fastening systems along the luff.
- Friction zones check the areas of contact between your sails and the boat's components, especially where they rub against shrouds, stanchions or chainplates.
- Anti-UV strip inspect the UV protection strip on your furling genoa. Replace any worn or damaged strips.
To clean your sails, soaking is an effective method if you have enough space. Simply immerse the sails in a large tub, such as a container or dinghy, with a mild soap solution, such as St. Mark's soap. It's important to avoid abrasive cleaners and hard brushes that could damage fabric fibers or resins, especially Mylar and Pentex. If soaking is not possible, sails can be rinsed flat with a low-pressure jet of water, taking care not to damage lightweight sails such as Kevlar or nylon. It is essential never to use chemicals, solvents or bleach, which are extremely harmful to sail materials.
Drying is one of the most important steps after sail cleaning, as a poorly dried sail is quickly prone to the appearance of mold, impairing its durability and performance. There are several methods for carrying out this operation, depending on the infrastructure available.
The best method is to hoist the sails in a sheltered area, as done by professional sailmakers. By hoisting the sail under cover, it dries evenly without the risk of wrinkles or prolonged exposure to humidity. This also allows you to check the sail's overall condition, while letting air circulate freely over its entire surface. However, this option requires a sufficiently large and suitable interior space, which is not always possible in ports or shipyards.
If you don't have this option, the simplest solution is to dry the sails flat, outdoors, on a clean surface. It's essential to turn the sails over regularly to ensure even drying on both sides. The main risk with this method is the creation of marked creases if the sails are not handled correctly, especially when they are made of laminated or reinforced fabric. To avoid this problem, we recommend lightly rolling the edges, rather than folding the fabric abruptly.
Reel and sheave maintenance: keeping accessories in good working order
Genoa furlers, like halyard sheaves, are often neglected during the winter months, even though they are crucial to the smooth running of seasonal maneuvers.
- Rinsing the reels modern rewinders (like those from Facnor or Profurl) don't require dismantling, but do require thorough rinsing with fresh water twice a year. Particular attention must be paid to bearings, which must be kept lubricated to avoid hard spots.
- Sheave control inspect mast and boom sheaves to make sure they turn freely. An often overlooked aspect of halyard maintenance is the condition of the sheaves, the pulleys that feed the halyards to the masthead or boom. Damaged or seized sheaves can cause excessive friction. Clean them with fresh water, then apply a silicone lubricant. If they are rubbing or noisy, dismantle them for a thorough cleaning. This will improve halyard glide and reduce frictional wear.
Equipment storage: preserving equipment over winter
The storage of sails, maneuvers and accessories is a step not to be neglected. Inadequate storage can cause damage, even if the equipment has been properly cleaned and dried.
- Folded or rolled sails rolling sails is preferable to folding, to avoid the formation of sharp creases, especially on laminated sails or sails with Kevlar or Dacron reinforcements. If you must fold, change the folds from one year to the next to limit weak spots.
- Maneuvers once desalted and dried, maneuvers should be stored away from moisture. Avoid airtight plastic bags, which encourage condensation.