Sao Nicolao and Sao Vincente: an overview of 2 Cape Verde islands with a variety of attractions

© Malou Montésinos

Sao Nicolao and Sao Vicente are part of Cape Verde's north-western group, called Barlavento to indicate their "windward" position. While Sao Nicolao invites you to immerse yourself in customs and traditions, Sao Vincente, birthplace of Césaria Evora, and the town of Mindelo are a sought-after musical and technical stopover

Sao Nicolao, a peaceful, traditional port of call

Sustained winds are not uncommon in the Cape Verde islands. The journey between the islands is all the faster for it. To our delight, our arrival in Sao Nicolao was enhanced by a rare sight: hundreds of dolphins accompanying us to the peaceful bay of Tarafal, in the lee of the island. Although affected by frequent droughts, the island enjoys significant agricultural activity. The landscape is mountainous and arid on the southern slopes, while the northern slopes are more verdant, with a few crops.

Walks into the heart of the sparsely populated island are full of surprises. Less touristy than its sister islands, Sao Nicolao is a great place to discover.

A wild stopover

Continuing westwards, Santa Luzia, a wild, uninhabited island, enjoys nature reserve status. You can anchor here for a wild stopover before entering the more hectic life of Mindelo, after a few hours' sailing on rough seas .

Sao Vincente, a century-old stopover between Europe and the Caribbean

Sao Vincente, located on the logical Europe-Caribbean route, sees a constant stream of boats and crews from all horizons. The landscape is rather austere. Access to drinking water is a major problem throughout the archipelago. Drought is endemic. A short rainy season of around three months brings scattered rainfall. Despite growing tourist activity, almost a third of the population depends on agriculture for survival.

Mindelo is home to the most important port on the Cape Verde Islands. The urban center is organized around a large, well-sheltered bay encircled by arid mountains. It's not lacking in charm, with its cobbled streets and colonial buildings in the color of "English cakes". Here, too, you'll find a blend of serenity and destitution. Tourism is on the rise, bringing with it a little money, of course, but very little "well-being" for the people. Mindelo is also the cultural center of the archipelago, where many artists express themselves in all kinds of more or less typical venues.

Cape Verde, land of music

Every Friday evening, music is omnipresent. In bars, restaurants, public squares and the clube nautico, bands distill Cape Verdean melodies, which are more upbeat than the melancholy "mornas" of the Portuguese tradition. The Idol here is "Césaria", who has worked hard to put a little hope in the hearts of young Cape Verdeans through music. May heaven grant that her eternal rest be accompanied by harmonious chords...

Mindelo
Mindelo

The Cape Verdean government is conducting a number of virtuous projects. These include renewable energies, seawater desalination and the reuse of wastewater for agricultural purposes... Today, famine problems are a thing of the past, thanks in part to the remittances sent home by many of our fellow citizens, who have emigrated to less harsh regions and share their income with those who have stayed "at home".

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