Sailing in Patagonia is not a common undertaking, especially on a 38-foot polyester cruising catamaran originally designed for sunny chartering. Here's an unvarnished, technical account of a voyage from Mar del Plata (Argentina) to Valdivia (Chile) via the channels of Tierra del Fuego.
Adapting a Fountaine Pajot Athéna 38 for extreme sailing
A 2004 Fountaine Pajot Athéna 38 is not designed for extreme latitudes. Before embarking on the adventure, several essential modifications were carried out on board: installation of a wind generator, replacement of the shrouds, addition of a small kerosene heater and complete overhaul of both engines. The anchor chain was changed (50 m in 10 mm) and a 43 kg Rocna-type Brazilian anchor was installed.
The boat has a shallow draft and two engines, an advantage in the event of damage or seaweed entanglement in the propellers. However, cabin heating remains its weak point, and it will be difficult to combat the permanent humidity on the Chilean coast. On the sailing side, the surface area exposed to the wind, particularly with the bimini and solar panels, will remain a source of concern at anchor.
Sailing around South America means strict formalities and complex sailing conditions. Entry into Argentina takes place in Mar del Plata, with its complex administrative formalities: customs, health, immigration, prefecture. Boat safety checks are also carried out (raft, fire extinguishers, VHF, Iridium...).
Sailing to Ushuaia took 43 days, with numerous stopovers (Camarones, San Julian, Isla de los Estados...). Some were chosen, others were imposed by the weather to allow a gale to pass. West and south-westerly lows called for fine-tuned weather strategies and numerous waiting anchorages.
Crossing the Patagonian canals between Brazil and Chile.
The book "Patagonia & Tierra del Fuego Nautical Guide", a veritable bible, is indispensable for identifying caletas and validating rock moorings. Often, the catamaran is moored with 2 to 5 lines ashore, depending on exposure and forecasts.
Sailing through the canals, especially the Beagle, with its glaciers that come right down to the sea, will remain one of our unforgettable memories. The extreme solitude is also part of the pleasure of sailing in (almost) virgin territory.
Then the ascent along the Chilean coast, with its many islands, will be gentle, always with the wind on our nose. The Chilean Armada imposes itineraries in this region, asking for daily positions and controlling departures. Stéphane uses an iridium GO for this, not wanting to switch to Starlink just yet. The 1670-mile ascent along the Chilean coast is almost entirely motorized, into the wind. Progress is always made in daylight, with anchorages in the caletas at night.
Constant vigilance against currents (up to 8 knots north of Chiloé) and wind shifts. Refuelling stops are rare, but sufficient (Puerto Williams, Eden, Natales, Aguirre).
A bold choice of route, but an alternative to the Panama Canal
This itinerary is challenging, but economical and off the beaten track. Patagonia was chosen as an alternative to the Panama Canal, whose cost (3,000 euros in 2024) is becoming a deterrent. But it's no coincidence that fewer than ten yachts a year follow this route south of America, given the conditions encountered. On an 11.50-meter catamaran like the Athena 38, this type of navigation remains extremely rare. Crews need to be self-sufficient, seasoned, ready to deal with humidity and cold, and to maintain their boat far from the rest of the world.
Feedback: one-way navigation?
Taking the east-west route in Patagonia on a catamaran remains a choice not to be trivialized. Stéphane wouldn't recommend the trip in this sense. He says he's glad he did it, but won't be doing it again in the future. He considers the route more logical in the Pacific-Atlantic direction, with a majority of downwind conditions. This "upside-down" navigation requires good weather control, solid technical skills and crew coordination. It is reserved for seasoned, well-prepared sailors.
Thoughtful navigation
Sailing in Patagonia on a small cruising catamaran is a very special undertaking. Far from the crowded anchorages, this route gives a place back to seafaring commitment. For yachtsmen planning to leave the beaten track, Patagonia offers a demanding but unforgettable sailing terrain. It remains to be seen whether the coming seasons will see more multihulls daring the challenge.
