After setting off from Sète and gaining her first experience aboard her Hobie Cat Mirage trimaran, Violette encountered her first real difficulties between Marseille and Italy.
Porquerolles and a first fright
An easterly wind has picked up as Violette begins her crossing of the harbor around Marseille. Passepartout has to tack, but she's not capeing very well, she says:
" The Hobie Cat Mirage is perfect for big lakes, but as soon as the chop rises, it slows down quickly. Under sail, I was always pushing on the pedals to maintain a good average speed".
Violette sails along the southern coast of Friuli, stopping off at Cap Croisette, which she has visited before. It's here that she meets Andrea, an Italian who sails an even more unusual boat than her own Passepartout.
Having left Italy 5 years ago, Andrea's prao is an inventory à la Prévert, made up of odds and ends and equipment more or less designed for sailing. The two sailors spend a lovely evening together, then the next day, Violette crosses the calanques park and makes a stopover on the island of Les Embiez.
After a dream bivouac, Violette docks at Porquerolles after a long and tiring climb upwind. An acquaintance of Andrea's leaves her the keys to a cabin on the island, where she spends her first night in a real bed, and takes advantage of the harbor master's showers:
"By contrast between this kind of sailing and life ashore, you enjoy simple things much better and become less demanding about your comfort."
After two days on the island, she sets sail again and makes her first mistake, she explains:
" In Cavalaire, I had my first scare. I made an error of judgement, misjudging a grain. I'd never experienced anything like it, so I was really surprised. I caught a huge one, which really impressed me. I rolled up my sail, and also my trampolines to avoid getting caught in the wind. It was pushing really hard".
Saint-Raphaël and the Lérins Islands
After a short stopover in Saint-Raphaël, Violette and Passepartout continue eastwards along the Esterel massif:
" It's been a wonderful day. A trickle of air on a flat sea and plenty of sunshine. Passepartout is delighted and making good progress! We're taking advantage of it to make a big day of it.
Cap Dramont and Fort de Boulouris, then the bay of Cannes and its Lérins islands. I skirted the magnificent Santa Margherita island before crossing to Cap d'Antibes.
Last stretch, still under the sun, to the St Laurent sur mer sailing club, where I was made very welcome. A small covered pitch for my tent and a shower. The airport is just around the corner... But it's a beautiful day that's coming to an end.
Goal: pizza in Italy tomorrow night! Big gale on Friday and probably too much swell on Saturday for sailing. Tomorrow, we'll have to track to a nice spot. "
Forza Passepartout
Thirteen days after leaving Sète, Violette and Passepartout arrive in Italy:
" Despite the easterly wind, I was delighted to cross my first border at sea. I docked at Ventimiglia. The wind picks up and I'm forced to stay put. I take the opportunity to visit the village.
With its colorful houses and mountains jutting out into the sea, its villages clinging to the cliffs, it's a magical place. But the beaches are not wild.
Crossing the Gulf of Genoa was a bit of a sport, because of the sea traffic. I passed a lot of cargo ships and big workboats. I kept my distance and always passed them from behind. The arrival in Genoa was long and a bit difficult. The wind made some nice waves at the end of the day. This disorganized swell is slowing my boat down a lot. I'm sailing close to the coast, with a headwind that forces me to tack for a long time before finally reaching Genoa.
I then spent three days in the city, where I fell a little ill. I was taken in by a French woman, which gave me a chance to recharge my batteries and visit the city".
Violette then stops off at the famous Cinque Terre villages. She regrets :
" I didn't find it all that charming. It lost its authenticity. I bivouacked on a beach where it wasn't supposed to be allowed, then left quite quickly. Other lesser-known villages have much more charm".
Violette continues to make progress along the Italian coast. It's mid-November and getting a little chilly.
" The wind coming down from the mountains is bringing fresh air, and it's starting to get chilly. I sail most of the time in neoprene, and also have overalls and a watch jacket. "
Despite the cold, Violette is still smiling, but she's going to have to make a big decision about the next stage of her journey: whether to continue along the Italian coast or head for Corsica and then Sardinia.
