Having set out to sail the North Atlantic, the sailing yacht Arthur continues its journey as far as the Arctic Circle. The stages in Iceland continue in the ice, under the midnight sun.
Departure for Iceland
After a few fine days in the Faroe Islands, the wind shifted in our favor to take us all the way to Iceland. We arrived two days later on the east coast, with the sun in our wake.
The weather is so nice and mild that we can hardly believe it. We're in Iceland at last! The landscapes of snow-capped mountains overlooking lochs with lush green shores prove it. The warm welcome of the Icelanders too.
A taste of summer
Our first sailings on the east coast of this large island have a taste of summer cruising. Accompanied by another French sailboat with a family on board, we pass from small fishing port to small fishing port with delight. The wind remains very moderate, though with some effects due to the relief near the coast.
Moored at the quay, we visit the small, colorful villages where fishing is often the main activity. On this side of Iceland, tourism is reasonable. It does, however, allow the development of some useful infrastructures, such as camping areas, tourist information points and cafés.
Almost every village also seems to have a grocery store, gas station, swimming pool and well-equipped children's playground.
Destination the Arctic Circle
Arriving on Iceland's northern coast, we decided to celebrate the solstice by sailing to the island of Grimsey, the only point in Iceland where the Arctic Circle passes. We leave in the late afternoon for a night's sailing.
Shortly after our departure, we cross the mythical Arctic Circle line. Alas, a thick fog rolls in and accompanies us for most of the way. We won't be enjoying the midnight sun this time. We arrive at Grimsey anchorage with the radar on.
First navigation in ice
Leaving the island the next day, we head for the Vestfirdir peninsula in northwest Iceland. A two-day sail awaits us. We were soon cocooned in fog.
When it finally lifts, we are stunned to discover a huge line of ice a few miles ahead, stretching from north to south. We must cross this barrier to continue our journey. This is Arthur's ice baptism.
We start by furling the genoa for better visibility and thank the fog for lifting. All too quickly, as it falls back as quickly as it left, trapping us once again in a cottony world.
We proceed cautiously under sail, slaloming between the small growlers. In some places, the ice field is compact and progress complicated. But after a few miles, the grip loosens, the sun reappears and we can set the genoa again.
Scattered growlers accompanied us throughout the day, but did not hinder our progress unduly.
