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Putting a river boat ashore is not as frequent as at sea, especially because the fouling of the hull is not as troublesome in fresh water. There is little or no shellfish to colonize it. However, propellers and rudders are exposed to bad encounters and their control is often a motivation to get out of the water.
A test in navigation
Before going ashore, it is important to do a navigation test. This is an opportunity to identify any propulsion weaknesses, propeller shaft vibrations, lack of efficiency in a bow thruster or imperfect centering of a rudder. These are all symptoms that will be difficult or impossible to detect in the dry.
Before grounding
Just before the water is released, give your engine's cooling system a shot of antifreeze. When dry, fresh water could freeze and damage the cooling system. Also, be sure to empty the bilge to prevent the presence of water from unbalancing the boat, especially if a crane is used for grounding.
High pressure washing
As soon as you get out of the water, use a high-pressure cleaner to wash the hull. Dirt will come off relatively easily if you do it right away. Remove the fenders if they are usually left in place. This makes cleaning easier and avoids headaches when you straighten up.
The round of the tree
Once the boat is clean and secured, make the usual checks. If there are any unpleasant surprises, you can get the necessary parts without delay. Start with the propeller shaft, which should be round and free of hard spots. To check this, you can place a pencil against the rudder and rotate the propeller, which makes it easier to discern a false round.
Beware of the game
Care should be taken to shake the shaft in all directions to check for any signs of flutter. In the same way, we will make sure that the stern tube fasteners have not taken any play. The condition of the propeller will also be checked. Be aware that if one of the blades is damaged, it is possible to have it repaired and balanced.
Neither veiled nor twisted
The same procedure should be followed with the rudder, which should not flap in the yawl tube. We will also check that the fittings of the turnbuckle and the keel block do not show any abnormal play. A quick glance will ensure that the rudder blade is not bent or twisted. The rudder should also be checked for balance by turning the rudder back and forth.
Finger and eye
Any propellers will be removed to check and replace any broken pins. We will of course check the presence and condition of the anodes, but also that none of the through-hulls show any sign of weakness.
Dry before repairing
It remains to walk around the hull itself to locate any gelcoat or polyester snags. In this case, the surface to be repaired must be prepared without delay, so that drying can begin without delay. This is important to limit the time spent on shore.
When everything is repaired, a generous coat of antifouling should be applied to the hull, focusing on the area around the waterline. These are the areas most exposed to light and therefore where algae grow fastest.
