Faaite: a serene stopover in French Polynesia

Sailboat at anchor in Faaite

In the Tuamotu archipelago, the atoll of Faaite and the small village of Hitianau are a very pleasant stopover. The inhabitants live off the local resources at a leisurely pace.

Mooring near the pass

The entrance to Faaite lagoon is through the Teporioha pass. The Kanahava anchorage is located just at the entrance of the lagoon, on the north side of the pass and in front of the village of Hitianau. A buoy is installed on a mooring opposite the village, which is used by schooners that come to supply the atoll and by the local barge.

When this buoy is occupied, you must anchor very carefully between the numerous coral spats. Get a diver to help you, and ease your chain with a fender to avoid damaging your mooring line or the corals!

Here, there is a depth of 3 to 5 meters, and hundreds of curious fish.

La passe de Teporioha et le mouillage de Kanahava ©Julie Leveugle
Teporioha pass and Kanahava anchorage ©Julie Leveugle

A miniature village

In Faaite, everyone knows each other. It is rare that sailboats make a stopover: one is quickly noticed, but the welcome is benevolent and the locals are happy to come and meet you. The village has only a few streets and you can go around it in 30 minutes.

Point de vue sur le lagon de Faaite ©Julie Leveugle
View on the lagoon of Faaite ©Julie Leveugle

Hitianau offers some supply possibilities: there are two stores, whose stocks depend on the random passage of schooners. It is risky to rely on them for food! There is also a bakery, open one hour a day at sunrise. To take advantage of it, you have to order the day before.
The Office des Postes et Télécommunications (OPT) allows mail to be sent, but there is no cash machine.

Un bateau pour les activités maritimes ©Julie Leveugle
A boat for maritime activities ©Julie Leveugle

An overview of Polynesian architecture

In addition to the boats of all shapes and sizes that punctuate the stroll along the lagoon, Faaite offers a glimpse of the typical architecture of the Tuamotu Islands.

Quelques éléments d'architecture polynésienne ©Julie Leveugle
Some elements of Polynesian architecture ©Julie Leveugle

The streets and houses are well maintained and the gardens made of sand are very charming. There are many driftwood sculptures, buoys and shells to decorate the village.

The town hall on stilts, designed to serve as a shelter in case of cyclone is also a remarkable element.

L'église du village d'Hitianau et la ferme perlière ©Julie Leveugle
Hitianau village church and pearl farm ©Julie Leveugle

A lifestyle built around the resource

In Faaite, everything is designed to make maximum use of the resources available on site.

The inhabitants live largely from fishing and coconuts. Fish and copra are used locally, but also sold to schooners passing through on their way to Tahiti and the market stalls in Papeete.

Fish parks in front of the village allow to get fish quickly, without exhausting the resource. Fishing is also done with a machine gun or by diving with a harpoon.

At one time, Faaite Atoll produced drinking water by desalination of sea water. But the equipment did not work for long, and rainwater is once again used by the inhabitants.

More articles on the theme