Imagine a deep valley bordered by escarpments, carved into terraces where vines, olive trees and lemon trees grow. On the top of the hill, sometimes a modest chapel or a rich estate where port wine is aged. Several hundred meters below, the mirror of the great expanses of water created by the dams that produce a good part of the Portuguese electricity. This very beautiful waterway can only attract lovers of nautical pleasures, even if the gigantic locks do not fail to impress.
An impetuous river
The Douro is 852 kilometers long. It has its source at Pico de Urbion in Spain, but only its Portuguese part is navigable, for 215 kilometers. The river crosses the country from East to West, from Barca de Alva to Porto. The 125 meters slope made it an impetuous river, until 5 hydroelectric dams tempered its moods.
Gigantic locks
These reservoirs form vast and magnificent bodies of water. Locks allow to cross these dams, but they are among the highest in Europe! The one of Carrapatelo has a 35 meters drop. Its downstream entrance is a hole in the base of the dam, which looks like an entrance to the bowels of the earthâ?¦ One does not enter without apprehension!
A very organized navigation
Although navigation on the waterways is not very constraining, the organization of locks is very rigorous. It is necessary to register your boat in advance on the multilingual APDL Douro website, and then to justify the payment of the fee for each lock maneuver. These are scheduled in advance, at very precise times.
Quiet and fast
In the alluvial parts, the Douro is wide and does not have a marked current. On the other hand, in the rocky defiles near the dams, it can reach 6 to 8 knots and depends on water releases, which requires a good reserve of engine power. The channel is perfectly marked and ensures a draft of 4.20 meters in the downstream part and 2.00 meters further upstream.
Top quality nautical equipment
The Douro is frequented by many cruise ships, some transport boats, but also by pleasure craft and traditional "rabalos", often converted by the houses of Porto to walk their visitors. The docking and launching facilities are numerous and of impressive quality. It seems that the classification of a part of the valley as a UNESCO World Heritage Site has allowed access to important subsidies...
The transportable boat, the best way to discover
To discover the banks of the Douro, it is possible to go up from the ocean, but another option is to come with a transportable boat, which allows you to explore each reach in detail and avoid the locks by road. This is undoubtedly one of the best solutions, especially since it would be a pity to limit oneself to the banks of the river without gaining altitude.
The contrasts of Portugal are best appreciated when you drive a few kilometers away from the Douro. The narrow and winding roads often lead to isolated hamlets, at the door of which modernity has visibly stopped. It is these contrasts that make Portugal and the Portuguese so endearing. Following the Douro Valley is an excellent way to meet them.
