Cognac owes its fame to the brandies that the barges carried on the river to the port of Rochefort. This waterway crosses a landscape dotted with pleasant towns such as Saintes, Saint-Savinien or Rochefort, but also with numerous villages where it is easy to moor to discover a region that is not lacking in attractions. The estuary is also a fascinating space, at the border of the river and maritime worlds.
From one shore to the other
As soon as the Crouin lock is crossed, the tone is set. The valley widens into low meadows that are often submerged during winter floods. The pontoon on the right bank has been installed by a local winegrower who welcomes boaters and does not fail to offer tastings of the products of his vineyards, which he distills on the spot. Rouffiac and Dompierre are linked by a chain ferry that locals and tourists use to get to the guinguette. If the ferry is in maneuver, one will remain at a distance the time that the attendant slackens his chain.
The underside of the mill
The Baine lock is located at the end of a diversion. The waters of the wild arm cross an old water mill. It is a superb site where you can rent canoes to go on an excursion. Just avoid parking at the downstream pontoon used by the Palissy III, a fully electric tour boat. To get to the village, instead of crossing the restaurant terrace, you can go through the basement of the mill where the wheels once moved by the current and the bearings and anchors of the millstones remain.
Saintes la romaine
The stopover in Chaniers is an opportunity to perfect the supply. The stopover is pleasant and another ferryboat ensures the animation. A "guinguette" allows you to refresh yourself just a few steps away from a supervised beach. Saintes is nestled in a meander of the river and it is undoubtedly the most attractive city of the route! It has 2 harbors: a long pontoon in the city center near the Arch of Germanicus and a quay downstream. Be careful not to moor at the quays of the city center where the tide could play tricks on you even if the tidal range generally does not exceed a few dozen centimeters.
A privileged view from the water
The city is airy and the light-colored stone catches the light superbly, whether it is the Roman amphitheater, the Ladies' Abbey or the houses along the quays. There is no shortage of places to eat and drink and a stay in Saintes is often a great memory. Between Saintes and Taillebourg, the banks are lined with luxurious residences emerging from the trees. Almost all of them have a private mooring. In Taillebourg, it is better to moor at the quay than at the pontoon if you want to avoid the turmoil of the neighboring water ski club. The hill of the old castle offers a very pleasant balcony on the valley.
Nautical and aquatic pleasures
Port d'Envaux has a leisure area, a beach and a marina. You can rent an electric or thermal boat. Splashing, children's cries, colorful boats... it emanates from this place, a joyfully carefree impression. Just downstream, the tall silhouettes of the castles of Panloy and Crazanne stand on the bank. Both can be visited and are well worth the detour.
Saint-Savinien the gateway to the estuary
The island of Grenouillette in Saint-Savinien has a miniature harbor where children can try their hand at sailing aboard replicas of commercial ships. After passing by by boat, you can walk along the Claude Quessot quay, a narrow street that cuts through the houses of real doll's gardens on the river. The other side of the scene is as pleasant as the place! The Saint Savinien lock marks the end of river navigation. Further downstream, the estuary gives free rein to the tide and one should take care to plan one's passage in order to have the current flowing.
We watch over the freighters
The journey to Rochefort is not difficult. It is downstream from the suspension bridge of Tonnay-Charente that one can start to meet cargo ships. They circulate in the vicinity of the high seas and come to turn here or jam the entrance lock of the commercial port. Their maneuvers are announced on VHF channel 12. The gates of the Rochefort marina open around the high seas. The pontoon of the Corderie allows to wait and to discover the city and its arsenal.
The estuary up to Port-des-Barques is not a place of tourism, but one will not fail to appreciate from the water the vestiges of the arsenal, starting with the superb building of the Corderie Royale, the forms where the Hermione was built, the ferry bridge or the fountains of Fort-Lupin.
Local tips and tricks
The great houses of Cognac are worth a visit, especially Otard, located in the castle.
A large waterfront area facilitates docking and convenient fueling.
The stopover at Chez Landard is a must. Mr Babineau, the local wine grower, gives a warm welcome to boaters.
The guinguette of Rouffiac is an excellent place to stop, as is the pontoon of Dompierre.
The Dompierre and Chaniers ferries run along a chain. Sound the horn to warn them of your approach.
The Moulin de la Baine is a popular restaurant. In order not to disturb the service, you can cross it in the basement.
La Musardière in Saintes has a beautiful terrace in a paved courtyard. A charming place !
On the island of Saint-Savinien, a miniature port offers children the opportunity to learn about navigation.
Under the new bridge of Saint-Savinien, the air draft varies according to the tide. Be careful!
The lock keeper in Saint-Savinien will be able to advise you on the best departure time to take advantage of the tide to Rochefort.
In Rochefort, there is no shortage of places to visit, starting with the Corderie Royale and its superb maritime bookstore, the school of naval medicine, or the arsenal where the Hermione was built.
The cargoes go up to Tonnay-Charente. They circulate around the high seas. Stay tuned on channel 12 of the VHF.
The downstream Charente in summary :
- Length 120 km from Cognac to Port-des-Barques
- 3 locks
- Speed limit of 12 knots downstream of the Tonnay-Charente bridge, 20 km/h downstream of the A837 bridge, 10 km/h upstream and 5 km/h in the vicinity of towns and rest areas.
- VHF: channel 12 in the maritime zone and in the vicinity of the commercial port
- Vignette and navigation tax: no
- Managing institution: Charente River, Charente and Charente-Maritime Departmental Councils
- Template: 28 x 6.35 m
- Minimum air draft : 3,50 m
- Minimum draught : 1,50 m
- Renters : Canalous in Cognac, Leboat in Jarnac, Inter-croisières (Nicols) in Sireuil
- Navigation Guide: É ditions du Breil n° 06 - The Charente
