When it comes to choosing a sailboat for a long voyage, there are many criteria to consider: sturdiness, performance, budget and the ability to adapt to the needs of an ever-changing crew. Simon and Caroline set their sights on Galapagos 43, E Pur Si Muove a pragmatic choice dictated as much by nautical experience as by budgetary constraints. Between renovations and major refits, their Galapagos 43 has become a boat built for adventure.
Why did you choose the Galapagos 43, a 1977 model, for your sailing adventure? What qualities were you looking for in a sailboat to undertake a long voyage like this? Were you already familiar with sailing, or was it a big leap into the unknown?
Simon : When it came to choosing a sailboat, I first looked for a boat with a split rig, ketch or schooner, to benefit from a wide variety of possible trimmings and balances. The choice of a steel hull was above all dictated by our budget at the time of purchase (we were 21). The Galapagos presented itself as a good compromise: a ketch, admittedly heavy, but with relatively fine water entries and a more limited wetted surface than other designs in its class. This logically made it a boat capable of maintaining respectable daily averages, even in light winds.
I've been sailing since I was very young on the family boat (my father actually built his own boat), both cruising and racing, especially during my high school and university years. I was destined for a maritime career as an engine-deck officer in the merchant navy. In other words, my life revolves around the sea.
Caroline i didn't have much say in the purchase of the boat, as our relationship was just beginning. What's more, I didn't know anything about sailing or the sea, which has changed a lot since then.
Did you make any special modifications to the yacht before departure?
Simon and Caroline : There have been a lot of them! We changed the engine, redid all the electricity, which really wasn't up to standard, treated the steel thoroughly before our first departure in 2018, then again during our extended stopover in La Réunion. We replaced our sails in South Africa and completely overhauled the fuel system (including the tanks, back to a professional system). We also built composite booms (as the stocks of Francespar and Marco Polo parts from the 80s had mostly disappeared), recast the water systems and improved our electrical autonomy.
Other major works followed: destruction and reconstruction of the strip planking roofs, routine steel maintenance, partial conversion of the galley and starboard aft cabin to accommodate our new deckhand, Lucien.
We also redid various woodwork, changed the electronics, stripped the hull and updated the entire paint system. The Plexiglas of the 33 portholes was replaced, and we sewed various awnings and other fittings. Finally, we completely replaced the shrouds, among other improvements.
With the budget and experience gained over time, this turned into a complete overhaul of the yacht. If we had to do it all over again, we'd have preferred a total strip-down from the outset, so as to avoid having to live with work all the time, and start again on a completely sound footing.
You set sail from Le Havre to Reunion Island, via the Cape of Good Hope. How did you manage this long and demanding crossing, and why did you choose to sail around the world "upside down", against the tide of classic maritime routes and downwind conditions?
Simon we left mainland France in November 2018 and met up with my father in the Canaries, where he was also heading down to Cape Verde with his boat. We sailed together until January 2019, when he "turned right" while we headed in the opposite direction. When we saw the hundreds of boats in the marina at Mindelo (Cape Verde) that were literally about to pour into the West Indies, our choice to head for Ascension Island, although met with skepticism and incomprehension on the pontoons, seemed natural and in keeping with our temperament.
From Cape Verde, we headed for Brazil, crossed the Doldrums, then sailed close-hauled, a regime that practically never left us until La Réunion âeuros and even well afterwards, incidentally. We don't see this as "backwards", but rather as an alternative itinerary, physically harder on the crew and the ship, and above all considerably longer.
The South Atlantic is relatively maneuverable and stable, which enabled us to evolve under windvane control, adapting our tacks according to the windward and windward shifts and the sub-equatorial current. I also like the original aspect of this route: it allowed us to have more interaction with other sailors, even if this was sometimes fleeting.
In St. Helena, for example, most of the yachts we met had not planned to stop at Ascension Island, mistakenly believing that the formalities there were complex, if not impossible. As we had just returned, we were able to provide them with up-to-date information and prevent them from missing out on this magnificent island. In return, we were able to gather valuable information for our future stopovers.
Caroline when Simon spoke to me about a "journey in reverse", I don't think I fully understood the implications and naively went along with it. Today, I have no regrets and I'm very proud of the road I've travelled, but it was sometimes long and trying. It's clearly not been the easiest road... Now that I've got the hang of it, one thing's for sure: I wouldn't do it a second time.
Which of your boat's equipment do you consider indispensable, the ones that have made the difference throughout your voyage?
Simon a reliable engine and a clean, well-designed diesel system are obviously essential. We started our trip with a 26-lb CQR anchor, which never really convinced me in terms of holding power and sinkage. During our stopover in La Réunion, I built a Spade S160 anchor in marine-grade steel, based on the exact plans of an existing model. I even slightly leaded the point to bring it up to 35 kg. Given our anchorages âeuros winds, proximity to coasts and diversity of bottoms âeuros it has never failed us.
For example, in Sorong, West Papua, a 35-meter, 100-ton tourist schooner chased us in 25 knots of wind. Her anchor hooked our chain and, after a short haul, our Spade held both boats! It then took a real effort to free her from the silt she had created. This anchor is simply incredible!
As for the windvane gear, it was our best partner. It's a Windpilot Pacific, which sends a signal back to the tiller via lines. It has covered a good number of miles and is remarkably easy to maintain. At a glance, it must have covered 90% of the 35,000 miles we sailed!
Caroline simon and I don't necessarily have the same criteria when it comes to equipment. For me, the ones that make the difference in terms of comfort are :
- A fridge: for long crossings, we've always been delighted to be able to store the fish we've caught, and to have a little butter every morning.
- A solar shower system: much appreciated after a day at sea.
- Toilets: when you're living on a long-haul boat, I think they're a must!
How do you finance an extended sailing life, especially when you're sailing for several years? What are the sources of income that enable you to support yourself while still at sea?
Simon and Caroline we chose to live on our boat for 10 years, which enabled us to put money aside. Being merchant sailors and nurses, we're lucky enough to have relatively mobile professions. However, we didn't work during our voyages, as we wanted to take full advantage of these moments and make a real break.
So we lived solely on our savings, with a monthly budget. Fortunately, we didn't suffer any major damage, which enabled us to stick to our budget. We came across several boats whose crews were working remotely. In this case, however, there's a constant need for Internet access, which we feel detracts from the charm of the trip.
