An accessible shelter in southern Liguria
On the border between Liguria and Tuscany, the Gulf of La Spezia doesn't enjoy the tourist fame of its Cinqueterre neighbors. It is, however, far more welcoming to yachtsmen and sailors in general. Whereas boats arriving from the north and Genoa have found the only real shelter in the Gulf of Portofino, with the small villages clinging to the Cinqueterre mountains able to accommodate only a few boats, and of small size, in a very relative shelter, those coming from the south have had to sail from Livorno along a sandy, low-lying coast, whose only interest is the mountains in the background and the white reflections of the marble quarries in the sun. To find a sheltered harbor, marinas and even a few anchorages in the Gulf of La Spezia is enough to put a smile on the face of any yachtsman approaching this all-weather corner of Liguria.
La Spezia, a cosmopolitan and varied port
As a central port, La Spezia is an important center of Italy's naval and nautical industries. In addition to a major naval base and a construction arsenal, with a few navigation restrictions to be checked on the charts before entering the harbor, the port city is home to a commercial port for cruise ships and container ships, as well as numerous yachtyards, from Riva to Sanlorenzo, via Baglietto and Antonini Navi. It was here that the famous superyacht Maltese Falcon was built.
At the heart of this bustling activity, marinas welcome visiting yachtsmen. Porto Mirabello is preferable to the more out-of-the-way Porto Lotti for its proximity to the city center, which can be reached on foot in just a few minutes and has all amenities.
Like any military port, La Spezia has seen its share of reconstruction work on the waterfront, but the town center is fairly well preserved, and there's no shortage of monuments to visit, once you've strolled along via Del Prione, the main thoroughfare. You'll also appreciate the seafront promenade, with its view of the gulf and surrounding mountains. Depending on the season, you may even catch a glimpse of snow from the peaks.
If you don't want to venture into the Cinqueterre with your own boat, day trips are available from La Spezia.
Lerici and its perched castle
At the eastern end of the bay is the pretty village of Lerici. Its castle, perched on a spur, dominates the site and outlines its silhouette. Once you've climbed the steps, the view opens out onto the pretty port, with its restaurants and fishing boats, and across to a small cove where you can anchor in fine weather.
Porto Venere and La Palmaria
To the west, Porto Venere faces the nature reserve on the island of La Palmaria. Here too, the Castello Doria dominates the village, but it's the little church of San Pietro that catches the eye, perched above the narrow passage between the mainland and the island of La Palmaria. The latter, a nature reserve, is nevertheless accessible for walks, and if mussel farming occupies part of the water, you can anchor off Porto Venere and take a stroll there. A number of bathing establishments and small restaurants are also available.
Take a boat trip around Palmaria to see the contrast between the exposed cliffs to the west and the protected coastline to the east. Pass between Palmaria and the small island of Tino, with its fort and elegant lighthouse on top. Owned by the Navy, the island was once the refuge of the hermit San Venerio, but is now only accessible once a year for his feast day.
Gastronomic arguments
If the cultural and aesthetic assets of the landscape weren't enough, the gastronomy will convince the last reluctant yachtsmen. In Liguria, renowned for the quality of its dishes, you'll find not only pesto and focaccia, but also seafood dishes, particularly mussels from the Gulf, served stuffed or with pasta. Drizzled with a local white wine, they will add the finishing touch to the charm of your stopover.
