Dinan appears on all the tourist guides, but nothing beats approaching it by boat! To taste the transition between the roughness of the English Channel, the superb ascent of the Rance river and the arrival between the stone quays which are tightened until the Old Bridge which marks the entrance of the canal and the end of the journey for the masted boats.
A reserve of energy
It all begins with the beautiful stretch of the Rance, a deep estuary whose physiognomy has been changed by the tidal power plant. A little upstream, the Chatelier dam holds back a vast expanse of calm water that narrows on the outskirts of Dinan. This reach is officially the first of the Ille et Rance Canal.
Between land and water
The marriage between land and water is so harmonious that even cars get confused... It happens that one is surprised to see a small red convertible going down the dockâ?¦ The propellers take over from the wheels and the car crosses the basin and goes up the Lyvet dock opposite as if nothing had happened. This Amphicar is well known by the local residents who do not consider it incongruous.
An enclosed port
In Dinan, the atmosphere is quite different. The port is embedded in the bottom of the valley and dominated by the city, the viaduct and the ramparts. A beautiful and charming city, especially when you enjoy the privilege of contemplating it from the water and away from the many tourists. The quays are lively and the terraces welcoming and colorful.
Wood and granite
In the extension of the old arched bridge, a steep cobbled street emerges. It is lined with artists' and craftsmen's houses and joins the Jerzual gate. The colored signs enhance the facades where granite and wood panelling are mixed.
A view that must be earned
You still have to climb through the old town to reach the Jardin Anglais, which overlooks the Rance valley and offers a magnificent perspective on the port. On the way back, a stop at the Maison de Tatie Jeanne on the quay of the harbor is a must, as it offers kouign amann from Dinan and all sorts of goodies that console the loss of calories conceded in the climb.
English people...
The Ille et Rance canal offers a safe communication route between the Channel and the Atlantic it was dug out of reach of the English cannons, at least for that reason. Nowadays, it is a way to link the northern and southern coasts of Brittany by avoiding the Iroise Sea.
This canal, which offers to join Nantes or Arzal by Rennes and Redon, is a transit way full of charm and surprises. It is also one of the French canals where the air draft is the smallest: only 2.30 meters!
