The river Charente is navigable on 171 km, from Angoulême to the ocean. However, it has two very different faces on either side of Cognac. The upstream part stretches in a bucolic landscape and above all its waters are as clear as those of a mountain stream if recent rains have not disturbed them. It is almost worrying! When we navigate, we can count the gravels on the bottom and see the carnivorous fish lurking along the grass beds, waiting for a prey to come within reach of their teeth.
Historically used by barges to transport merchandise, from Cognac barrels to cannons and ammunition from Angoulême to the Rochefort Arsenal, the Charente is now entirely dedicated to pleasure boating.
Locks operated by the user
The manual locks are operated by the user. This implies of course a certain expenditure of physical energy, but brings a lot of freedom. Everyone can pass through the locks at their own pace, but also navigate until sunset, which offers superb moments in the coolness and light of the evening. Elsewhere on the French waterways, the "administrative" schedules prohibit these fantasies. It is up to each navigator to stop at the pontoon before the lock and to disembark a crew member who will ensure the maneuver. For safety reasons, the gates are operated by solid wheels that have replaced the cranks. In the summer, young people sunbathing on the platform often offer their services to help boaters.
The great names of Cognac
Cognac is of course a name that rings a bell to the taste buds of all lovers of good things! In fact, the quays around the marina are lined with some of the biggest brands of the famous brandy. The visit not to be missed is that of the Otard house installed in the castle where François 1st was born. From there, you can walk up the cobbled street to the pedestrian area where you can dine at the Bistrot de Claude. The port is well equipped and managed by the Canalous boat rental company. The Charente river first runs along the heights of the Echassier district in a wide meander, then bathes the parks of the castles of Saint Brice and Garde-Moulin. Then comes Bourg-Charente with the Marnier-Lapostolle castle (where the Grand Marnier is made) and just opposite the Ribaudière, a very good starred restaurant! A stop at the pontoon is highly recommended!
Bathing or tasting, why choose?
A few kilometers upstream, we reach Jarnac. The town is lined with docks and the rental company LeBoat offers the usual port services. Nearby, it is possible to visit the birthplace of François Mitterrand or the Courvoisier cognacs, but one may prefer to refresh oneself with a swim in the river or rent a canoe to discover the wild arms. Going back to the river, the boat goes along the mills district and the parks of wealthy houses. A few kilometers upstream, a stop is necessary in Graves, a small village tightly packed around its bell tower. There is a pontoon and the Brillet winery, which concocts one of the specialties that mark the evenings on board: the Cognac-pear!
On the water, you may come across the Renaissance, a replica of a traditional gabare built by the Musée des gabariers de Saint-Simon. You can admire a beautiful exhibition about the local barge industry and objects collected in the river bed. Diving is one of the local pleasures. If you come to sail here, don't forget to bring your snorkel and mask, you won't regret it!
A dense and tasty heritage!
There again and up to Vibrac, many wild arms are open to adventurers in paddle or canoe.
The Châteauneuf stopover is located on an island and offers everything necessary for a pleasant stay, even though it may be preferred to Saint-Simeux with its mill and its eel fisheries.
If you want to enjoy the comfort of a port, don't miss the opportunity to dock in Sireuil. Audrey and Alex Motta, the owners of Inter-croisières are as helpful as it is possible to be! On the right bank upstream from the Motte lock, a pontoon seems to be placed in the middle of nowhere. It gives access to the Letuffe chocolate factory, a visit not to be missed under any circumstances! The meanders then follow one another until the outskirts of Angoulême, which nestles at the top of a rocky plateau. The slope can be rough from the port! Fortunately, the Comic Book Museum is right on the waterfront. Even if the stopover is not the most pleasant of the route, the city is worth a walk if only to admire the famous walls painted with comic book heroes.
Local tips and tricks
With its great Cognac houses, its castle and the many events that take place there, Cognac is worth a visit.
L'Atelier and la Terrasse des Pontis in Cognac, are 2 restaurants on the waterfront. We dine there very well !
The park of the castle of Saint-Brice is with the district of the Mills of Jarnac, one of the spots photos of the course!
The cross-current downstream of the Garde-moulin lock is treacherous and carries the pontoon.
The markings cover only the dangerous areas. Follow carefully the channel marked with dotted lines on the guide map. The same applies to the marine arches of the bridges.
The permissible draught is rather reduced at low water level, especially at Bourg-Charente and upstream of Sireuil. It is better to navigate here with a boat whose propeller is well protected by a long keel.
The Charente allows for beautiful and wild stopovers. Don't miss it !
The swift arms offer beautiful escapades. Taking a paddle or a canoe is a good idea!
The clear waters are a superb swimming and diving ground. By placing yourself in the current at the level of the sea grass with your mask and snorkel, the fish will quickly come to greet the new inhabitant of their aquarium!
On the approach to Angoulême, there is a small guinguette at almost every lock
It is possible to refuel in Cognac, Bourg-Charente, Jarnac, Gondeville, Châteauneuf, Sireuil, Nersac and Angoulême.
The upstream Charente in summary
- Length 59 km
- Locks 18, all manual and self-service. Can be crossed from sunrise to sunset
Speed limit of 10 km/h and 5 km/h in towns and rest areas - Vignette and navigation tax: no
- Managing institution: Charente River, Charente Departmental Council
- Template: 28 x 6.35 m
- Minimum air draft : 3,50 m
- Minimum draught : 1,00 m
- Renters : Canalous in Cognac, Leboat in Jarnac, Inter-croisières (Nicols) in Sireuil
- Period of unemployment: November to March
- Smartphone application : no
