From Cartagena to the San Bernardo archipelago: a yachting itinerary along Colombia's Caribbean coast

Cartagena Dos Indios © Malou Montesinos

Between Cartagena de Indias and the San Bernardo archipelago, Colombia's Caribbean coast offers a diversity of anchorages and landscapes, from fully equipped ports to isolated bays. Strict formalities, sudden gusts of wind and sometimes technical navigation punctuate this route.

A technical and cultural stopover in Cartagena de Indias

 "âeurosCarthagène des IndesâeurosÂ" is an ideal stopover. The town is very attractive, and the yachting district is well suited to maintenance and repair work ashore. From Curaçao to Panama, the sailing is initially calm, but can get a little lively when you reach the dreaded Cabo de Vela. After that, it's â??dive into the pastâ?.

Precarious anchorage in an unwelcoming bay

Left turn, and then it's a huge bay... Unattractive and cluttered with fishing nets, you can still anchor... half a mile offshore... We float in the middle of nothing and the water is often choppy, but for an overnight stay, it's just right for the sailor.

Restricted access and the discreet charm of 5 Bays

The "âeuros5 baiesâeuros", including Gairaca, as you head west, the first technically possible stopover is at the head of the magnificent Gairaca Bay. Alas, it is now forbidden to set foot on land there without first completing the formalities for entry to either Santa Marta or Cartagena. You will therefore need to obtain a " authorization to stay inâeurosles cinq baies âeuros" in exchange for a few "âeurospicaillonsâeuros"... Armed with this pass, it's easy to head back up to Gairaca, where you'll find a charming little beach. A few modest houses, nestling on the edge of Sierre Nevada, promise a delightful stay.

Exceptional biodiversity under surveillance

Colombia is home to one of the most diverse animal populations on the planet. A hike in this plant world is full of unusual surprises. Like, for example, coming face to face with a young cheetah or finding yourself in the middle of pre-Columbian graves buried on the site of an ancient Indian village... The 5 bays offer good shelter from the prevailing winds, and even from offshore swells. However, they are prone to â??eurospamperosâeurosâ?, the katabatic gusts that suddenly sweep down from the mountains at over forty knots...

Santa Marta, a stopover between formalities and heritage

In Santa Marta, mooring is permitted in the vicinity of the commercial port. But the marina is welcoming and secure, making it easy to complete the formalities. This city of half a million inhabitants is one of the oldest in the country. Its â??euroscÅur de citéâeurosâ? has preserved many buildings from the colonial era. On the waterfront, imposing bronze statues with Inca motifs are a reminder of our kinship with this fascinating empire, which still has so much to teach us. Tayrona Park is a â??sacred â??eurosterreâ? and a national reserve for the protection of biodiversity. In the hinterland, the Sierra Nevada mountains are home to thousands of Indian villages.

Cartagena: between nautical infrastructures and a lively city

Cartagena de Indias is a fascinating place. Anchoring is easy in this immense enclosed bay. But visiting sailors can also choose to moor at the Club de Pesca or Club Nautico quay. The latter also offers a dinghy berth with water supply. You can complete customs and immigration formalities yourself, but an agent is required to negotiate with the port authorities.

By day, the décor isn't the most charming. On the other hand, there's a supermarket nearby, well-stocked and well-priced. Access to the historic town requires a 15-minute walk, and there, it's a delight! Far from being a mere showcase for tourists, this city is actually a vibrant place. Numerous shops house all kinds of craftsmen and tradeswomen: dressmakers, shoemakers, computer and telephone repairmen, dentists, electricians... And let's not forget the many "canteens", just a few square meters in size, where cooks are busy preparing meals at 2 ⬠all-inclusive. Here, visitors will find an impressive array of monuments, squares, buildings, museums and other things to marvel at. What's more, Colombians are a pleasant people, easy to talk to, cheerful and quick to help.

An open-air museum city

An astonishing concentration of historical and aesthetic interests in this city. Every street, square and monument is both pleasing to the eye and steeped in history. Façades vie with each other in charm, with their ochre, earth-red, mustard and beige colors, and their corbelled balconies adorned with turned wooden balusters. Imposing wooden doors, dating from the 17th century, are embellished with wooden or bronze âeurosclousâeuros! The  "âeurosmusée des arts modernesâeurosÂ" showcases particularly original works, set off against a backdrop of perfectly authentic lava stone and brick.

Independence celebrations and popular fervour

The Independence Day festivities are celebrated in a blaze of light-heartedness. Visitors and residents mingle in music and dance to commemorate the movement that freed the Colombian people from the Spanish yoke in 1811. The election of Miss Colombia is a major event in the festivities, which ignite the community to the sound of â??eurosbandasâeurosâ? to Caribbean rhythms. It's also an opportunity to admire the many folkloric groups from all over the country, accompanied by ancestral instruments.

Rosario and San Bernardo archipelagos: sailing and isolation

And off to other islands... Far from the hustle and bustle and dust of the big city, the Rosario archipelago lies some 20 miles south-west of Cartagena. From Cartagena, you can reach it via the Boca Chica pass to admire the two 18th-century forts. After a few hours' leisurely sailing, anchoring in this national natural park is like taking a rejuvenating break in a coral setting with crystal-clear waters.

The San Bernardo archipelago, further from Carthagène, these pleasant pebbles are wilder and less touristy. However, their anchorages are less well sheltered. At Tintipan, you'll find the opportunity to drop anchor. The most curious place in the archipelago is called âeurosSanta Cruz del Isloteâeuros.

 "âeurosSanta Cruz del IsloteâeurosÂ" is considered the most densely populated island in the worldâeuros! Round, with a diameter of around one hundred meters, it's entirely covered with dwellings huddled together. A few pretty palm roofs soften the anarchic side. No less than 1,200 people live here, each with just a few square meters of living space.