Paradise is just around the corner, but first we have to cross the Intertropical Convergence Zone. We have tested the â??eurospot au noirâeurosâ? for you. The sky is still blue, full of cumulus clouds, when suddenly, up ahead, just beyond the horizon, a huge vat of molten lead seems to be patiently waiting to swallow up your boat and crew... In just a few hours, you're in it.
A living doldrums
L he sea has gone crazy, with steep, unruly waves. The breeze does anything from 5 to 30 knots in less than a minute, with a change of direction to boot. A paradise for scuttlebutt eaters, but a misery for those who enjoy â??eurospépèreâeurosâ? sailing. Occasionally, we come across a glut with two options: either it drops vertically, or it's a fire hose, and the whole thing stinks to high heaven. After one, two or even three days of this regime, a good steady breeze of around twenty knots, topped with a string of cumulus clouds in an azure sky, it's the trade winds! The good life is ours...
A paradise after hell
Tobago, the smaller of the two islands, presents itself as a reward after sailing. The anchorage of the â??eurosbaie des piratesâeurosâ?, off Charlotteville in the north of the island, offers calm and serenity. Arrival formalities are quick and simple. The small town is home to a few hundred souls, a large proportion of them fishermen. They ply the surrounding waters in their polyester clin boats, powered by outboards of around twenty horsepower. With only one sailor on each boat, and a large bamboo rod hauled at speed on either side, the conditions are ripe to attract dorados and barracudas...
Tobago is a delightful island, less visited by sailors than others because of its windward location. You can take a minibus to Scarborough in the south. The town is not very pretty, but the fortress, perched on a hill, offers a superb view.
And the atmosphere is rather relaxed. The cruise liners pour in their stream of tourists for a few hours of unbridled shopping. Nature is generous and offers a wealth of deserted beaches.
Hiking enthusiasts will be delighted by the exuberant rainforest. Adorable hummingbirds and a host of exotic birds are easy to spot. An excursion to the Argyle waterfalls provides delicious moments of refreshment after a few minutes' walk in the quiet, dampness of the bewitching canopy. These moments are particularly appreciated after a sailing session lasting several days.
