Suriname, an Amazonian stopover midway between French Guiana and the West Indies

Suriname River © Malou Montésinos

This tiny South American country, wedged between Brazil and French Guiana, is essentially made up of Amazonian rainforest. Its 600,000 inhabitants are concentrated along the Atlantic coast, particularly in Paramaribo, the capital. An original stopover well worth a visit.

First operation: entry formalities

They are made in Paramaribo, but anchoring there is no longer authorized.

Then you'll have to head upriver to Domburg, or a few miles further on to the "Resort Waterland" marina. Depending on the time of day, it may be advisable to anchor while waiting for the ebb tide to end. This can be done at the entrance to the Suriname River, at Braamspunt. As you sail upstream, it's not unusual to be visited by the maritime police. They position themselves alongside and carry out the usual checks on board... then set off again.

Paramaribo, a historic city with a whiff of adventure

Its two hundred and fifty thousand inhabitants are of the "âeurostout mélangéâeuros" variety: Hindus (emigrated after the abolition of slavery), Creoles, Javanese, Black Maroons, Chinese, Amerindians (only 3%, living in the forest that covers 90% of the territory). The entire city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

St Petrus et Paulus Cathedral is the largest wooden building in South America: its two towers rise to a height of forty-nine meters. Not far away, two sumptuous religious structures stand side by side, as if to proclaim the tolerance of the Surinamese: a synagogue and a mosque, cÃ'te à cÃ'teâeuros!

A few miles upstream, Domburg shows a very different face

You can anchor here, or moor at the Harbour Resort, whose facilities include a pontoon for dinghies, sanitary facilities and a swimming pool. Drinking water and rental vehicles are also available.

A former coffee, cocoa and citrus plantation, it's a pleasant, friendly place. Around the popular central square, numerous small restaurants and bistros offer the chance to relax in the shade of almond and mahogany trees. The clean, unsalty water is perfect for swimming. In the late afternoon, the "âeurosyachtiesâeuros" like to get together for a drink (or two...). The nearby refrigeration plant has its own fleet of fishing boats.

La Marina Resort Waterland

A few miles upstream, the Waterland resort marina can accommodate around 15 boats up to 25 metres long and with a 4-metre draught. It's an excellent starting point for a stroll through the forest to discover the local wildlife, which is particularly diverse.

The Cottica River is navigable for almost 100 nautical miles

From Nieuw-Amterdam to Moengo, the route skirts small, isolated and typical villages. At anchorages along the route through the forest, you can visit plantations ( Katwijk, Frederiksdorp) the cruise is enhanced by the presence of old sugar mills (Marienburg) and museums.