Imagine a body of water of some seven hectares, on the surface of which a small town in the south of France is reflected. A lake space perfectly oriented so that the fading light plays all the tones of a southern sunset. To those who will walk around it with a curious eye, this high river place will offer to discover astonishing works such as dry docks, a quadruple lock, mills and the quays of a port which was the most active of the Canal du Midi.
The weight of lobbies
The original route of the canal was to pass further south, into the Lauraguais plain. It took the insistence of the local lords and the diocese to deviate it at the cost of a significant increase in work. Lobbying is not a recent invention! The canal was thus dug at the southern limits of the city, but to allow it to join the valley towards the Mediterranean, it was necessary to build the Saint Roch lock, a set of 4 basins which redeemed a declivity of 9.42 meters.
A water reserve above all
A structure with multiple locks consumes a lot of water, and the first reason for the existence of the Grand Bassin was to constitute a reserve which avoids seeing the level vary too much according to the lock manoeuvres. Shortly afterwards, an artificial island was created to cut the effects of the Tramontane, which complicated, and still complicates, the manoeuvres of the barges.
A dynamic merchant port
Along the quays were established granaries, but also boat building yards and the workshops of the thousand small trades necessary to the river trade and navigation. Thus, in parallel to the Saint Roch locks, a building 190 meters long and 0.60 m wide housed the tools of a rope maker.
Between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean
Nowadays, crossing the narrow arch of the old bridge remains an adventure, as long as the wind is not too strong, which is often the case. The round tower of the mill then gives way to a low quay fitted out as a promenade. On the opposite bank, the fleet of the rental company Le Boat stretches out in front of the long building that used to house services related to the canal.
A living river heritage
While walking around the basin, you will appreciate the dry docks that are still operational, the small island Cybelle that has long hosted a guinguette, the old bridge that marks the limit between the marina and the basin. At the other end, an illuminated sign indicates that access to the Saint Roch locks is free. The road bridge seems insignificant and yet! If you look closely, you will notice that the railroad passes under the canal, which is itself overhung by the road.
Whether you come by water, road, rail, or even by the bicycle route that follows the towpath, the Grand Bassin is worth a visit and a look. Before going back to the shore, don't forget to stop at the Maison Escudier, which prepares the best artisanal cassoulet ever!
