It all starts at Baye, the highest point of the Nivernais Canal. In the river world, this is called a "bief de partage", meaning that the locks on both sides are downstream. Only a low dam separates the canal from the ponds that supply it with water. The stone curve underlines the vast stretch of water on which sailboats tack in the sunset.
Water activities
The pond of Vaux, the highest is dedicated to fishing. A causeway cuts it off from its neighbor, the pond of Baye. On the latter, one can practice sailing, canoeing, or paddling from the Activital base which offers all kinds of boats for rent, or from the pontoons of the Cercle Nivernais de la Voile. By following the canal's feeder channel on a bicycle or a scooter rented on site, you can reach the Aqua fluvial port.
Aquafluvial, a port with a view!
Aquafluvial rents boats and has a maintenance yard. Above all, it is a particularly welcoming port that also offers electric boats. The evenings here offer a breathtaking view of the canal and the pond. It's a perfect place to wait for the alternation that opens the Collancelle's vaults to downstream boats.
In the shade and cool of a boat under the vaults
When the light turns green, we are sure that no boat is engaged in front. The trench seems to go underground. In fact, the canal passes under a "mountain" which culminates at 286 meters. The passage is hardly wide enough for the boat. In 4 km, one crosses three vaults separated by short passages in the open air. The tunnels are lined with a step that makes them appear relatively wide and the brick walls soften the darkness.
Locks of many colors
This alternation of shadow and light has a hypnotizing effect and it is almost with regret that we find the big day in Port brûlé. Just enough time to catch your breath before starting the descent of the Sardy ladder. Composed of sixteen locks in 4 km, it opens the Seine side of the Canal du Nivernais and three hours are necessary to cross it. Each lock is painted in bright colors, all different. The set forms majestic enfilades, opened on large populated with water birds. Even the painted bollards are part of the landscape!
The jugglers of the valve
Sixteen locks may seem tedious, but that's without counting on the lock keepers who are as friendly as they are dynamic. They juggle with the valves, cycling from one structure to another to allow crossings without waiting or to ensure that the boat will find the open lock at the next one. These women and men are the real wealth of the Canal du Nivernais! Let's hope that a fatal bug will preserve them for a long time from all the automation projects!
Art is everywhere
Most of the lock houses are inhabited, some by artists who, when they are absent, leave a simple sign on the door inviting the visitor to enter! Sculptor, painter, art gallery, tea room, time passes quickly on the Sardy ladder. And it is finally with regret that one leaves this very beautiful space which combines so many richnesses in a few kilometers. To think that some people imagine that river navigation would be monotonous!
How to find out?
The best way to discover this site is undoubtedly by boat, whether it is private or rented. You can also take the green bicycle path that follows the Canal du Nivernais by the towpath or walk part of it. Whatever the means of transportation, you will find here accommodation on the waterfront, whether it is a gite, a campsite or rooms proposed on the nautical base.
