The Sarthe is navigable from Le Mans. It has several faces, starting with a pleasant, if a little severe, wooded countryside. As you go downstream, the curtain of trees becomes less dense and the landscape more cheerful. As you pass through the locks, you can taste the subtle variations in atmosphere that make up the nuances of the interior of France. At least in those regions that are lucky enough to be bathed by a river.
Le Mans, a heritage to discover
Le Mans suffers from a dull and industrious image, barely balanced by the fame of the 24 hours race. However, the "old Mans" is a beautiful interlacing of cobbled streets that serve old timber-framed shops squeezed around the cathedral. A medieval space built on the red ochre Gallo-Roman ramparts which dominate the river. These walls have been updated and progressively enhanced since the 1980s. On summer evenings, everything lights up: the Night of the Chimeras illuminates the walls with fantastic creatures projected on the facades. A moving, magical show, ideal for night-time strolls.
Locks adapted to the number of visitors
Even if it is a dead end, the port of Le Mans is pleasant and well equipped. It is an aviation pioneer who shows us the way: a statue of Wilbur Wright in full swing marks the entrance to the canal that leads to the first lock. The locks on the Sarthe are manned during the season and the rest of the time, they operate according to a very practical system of colored dots:
- Yellow the lock keeper is present, horn to warn him.
- Blue, dock to go prepare the lock
- Red, no passage
An island dedicated to pleasure and discovery
On the island of Moulinsart in Fillé, there is a water mill open to visitors that produces organic flour. There is also an exhibition space for contemporary art, a bistro with a dance floor, and above all a sandy beach that invites you to wade or to borrow a canoe to discover the wild arm. A stopover not to be neglected.
Hide and seek with the old stones
The region is one of the cradles of the automobile and it is common for the banks of the river to resound to the sound of old mechanics, especially during gatherings like the Mans-classic. On the other hand, the green banks of the river give a glimpse of beautiful houses, manors, castles or fortified farms. These beautiful stone buildings often only reveal their hidden face for a moment, before the curtain of trees hides them from view.
You can moor anywhere
The villages are attractive like Noyen with its pretty flowered alleys or Malicorne, famous for its earthenware factory. The workshop is bathed in a light that any artist would dream of. It is only open on request, but it is worth the effort! There is no lack of pontoons and docks and it is easy to make the "spur of the moment" stops that are the essence of river navigation. In Parcé, a very old house stands out from the river. Its name leaves no room for ambiguity: the Tripot!
Potted meat sandwiches to enjoy
The high façade of the Solesmes Abbey dominates the river with all its austerity. A hundred monks join their voices and express their devotion through Gregorian chant. Sarthe, rillettes... the association goes without saying! No need for a big table to taste this rustic speciality which can be served with a simple slice of good bread. The Nicolas butcher's shop in Solesmes serves excellent ones! In Sablé, the port is in the heart of the shopping district. Don't forget to go up to the gardens of the castle which offers a beautiful view of the city and the river.
The gentle way of life in Anjou
Downstream from Sablé, and especially after Chemiré, we enter the Anjou region and you can feel it in the gentle way of life! The banks are clearer, the eyes look further and the activities are visibly more turned towards the river. Morannes is a stopover as we like them: many pontoons, pleasant shops and discoveries like the café of Father Riou which was decorated by painters from Montmartre who came in residence at the beginning of the last century.
Music in Châteauneuf
in Châteauneuf, one can linger to detail the naïve characters with which the lock keeper has populated her garden, visit the House of the river or go to meet the instrument maker at the Zither Workshop. Didier Beauclair, creates his instruments in Etriché where he gives workshops in making and playing. A place full of blond shavings, crystalline notes and the mixed scents of varnish and resinous woods.
A tiptoeing escapade
The Moulin d'Ivray arm is a well-kept secret. It is a magical maze that bathes a timeless village, but one must dare to engage a boat of some importance between the water lilies. Downstream, the water flowed without restraint to the Loire and the Ocean. Since then, a lock dam has been built on the Maine river downstream from Angers, which allows to guarantee a suitable low water level, but the river remains capricious between Cheffes and Ecouflant.
The plain and the island of Saint Aubin between the Sarthe and the Mayenne are covered with water every winter, so much so that the beacons are very high and placed on the ground to prevent boats from getting lost in the fields during high water! One has the choice here to turn towards the Mayenne or to continue to Angers where the port faces the castle of King René.
Local tips and tricks
Every three years in the fall, the gates of the dams are opened and the river regains its free flow for the time of the skimming a period of unemployment to allow for the maintenance of navigation structures.
In Spay, the Sarthe river passes very close to the Spaycifique zoo and its discovery trails that allow interaction with the animals.
At the water's edge, the Auberge des Acacias in Dureil is one of the two starred restaurants in the department.
Just in front of the abbey of Solesmes, a steep path leads to Notre Dame du Nid, a small hidden chapel. It is open to all, so don't miss it!
In Solesmes, the butcher shop has a small restaurant "Au boeuf fermier". The products are of first choice !
In Morannes, the specialties of Martin's bakery are the plum pie and the fruit pie which will brighten up the ordinary on board.
The Maison de la rivière in Châteauneuf presents a free discovery tour that is as instructive as it is attractive
You can bypass the island Saint-Aubin by the Vieille Maine or by joining directly the Mayenne at the entrance of Angers.
Chain ferries provide the crossing to the island's restaurant. Horn to signal your arrival
The Sarthe in brief :
- Length 126 km
- 20 locks
- Speed : 10 km/h
- Vignette and navigation tax: no
- Managing establishments: Departments of Sarthe and Maine-et-Loire - Western Rivers
- Template: 30.85 x 5.20 m
- Minimum air draft : 3,40 m
- Minimum draught : 1,50 m
- Renters : Anjou navigation (Nicols) and les Canalous
- Navigation guide : Editions du Breil N°10-Pays de Loire
