Arrival in the Gulf of Morbihan
We arrived in the Gulf of Morbihan in good weather, on a Sunday. Off season, the gulf is very quiet despite the splendid weather. We admired the islands and the magnificent landscapes, while keeping a worried eye on the instruments because the sea bed rises quickly and the currents are as good as their reputation!
We checked one by one the places we had selected to anchor without finding the one where we will drop the anchor. Where there is a bottom, there is too much current. Unfortunately, we don't know the gulf well enough to know where the good spots are.
At the buoy, in the port of Larmor Baden
The time passes quickly in these cases and we have already 5 hours of navigation in the legs. The children are bored and start to get annoyed, we too. We decide, in desperation, to head for the deserted buoys of Larmor Baden harbor, near Berder island. After an unsuccessful attempt because of this damned current, we moored to a big buoy near the pier.
The place is quite charming with its small beaches and its promenade at the water's edge. The friendly village offers a market, a grocery store, a brewery and restaurants, a tobacconist's and all amenities. We are seduced!
However, after three pleasant days, the harbor master's office informs us that the buoy on which we have settled is not adapted to the size of our 47 feet sailboat. We have to leave. As we do not want to go to the anchorage of Ile Longue, too far from the land, we leave for Toulindac, passing through the famous Mare current which reaches 9.1 knots.
At anchor in front of Toulindac beach
We found a place, in front of Toulindac beach, where anchoring would be possible in an area sufficiently sheltered from the currents. Once there, we discovered the inevitable buoys that criss-cross the area. Despite everything, we managed to drop anchor behind them. We have just a little more distance to cover in the dinghy so that the children can let off steam on the beach.
The advantage of having a big and heavy sailboat, is to resist to the swell much better than with a small one! When the current puts us across the waves, quite modest in the gulf, we feel almost nothing inside.
Around us, the optimists of the sailing school are brightening up. We spent a few nice days picnicking, seeing friends and discovering the Ile aux Moines accessible by dinghy. Nevertheless, when a south-west gust of wind came up with 50 knots, we had to leave this nice anchorage to find a better shelter.
Anchor and buoy in the river of Auray
We left for the Auray River, which we were told was worth the detour. Our first intention was to anchor in front of Kerdréan bay, near the Berly hold. What do we find? Anchor buoys on both sides of the river. There is very little space left but we decide to anchor anyway on a high bottom. Honestly, even if we overtake a little on the channel, there is plenty of room to pass and, in low season, the traffic is very limited.
Unfortunately, two days later, the harbour master's office comes to see us to ask us to move. The wind is coming, we are not happy to be obliged to do so, but unfortunately we have to go to one of the mooring buoys a little higher in the river.
Even if the place is beautiful, lined with pine trees and nice properties, we are a bit disappointed not to be able to stay at anchor. Everything seems to be done to forbid the anchoring in the Gulf of Morbihan. There are probably ecological and regulatory issues at stake, but we are a bit frustrated not to be able to enjoy the freedom to anchor quietly, without disturbing anyone and by our own means.
