An isolated archipelago in the heart of the Indian Ocean
No one lives in Diego Garcia anymore, except for the American military who are stationed there. It is absolutely forbidden to approach within three miles of this base. Only a few passing sailboats are allowed to stop at Peros Banhos or Salomon. The authorized areas are very limited and it is for a maximum duration of 28 days.
It is essential to have satisfied, beforehand, a nice set of conditions. For example: to make a preliminary request in writing, to pay approximately 300$, to have an insurance of expenses of retirement and repatriation
We had the chance to sail there for a few days.
Exuberant fauna and flora in Chagos
We are anchored under the wind of the island "Diamantoros". The low tide discovers a "pedestrian strip" of white sand, which we approach by kayak. We are alone. It is magical. Robinsoneuros atmosphere! A small dark gray triangle cuts the smooth wave inside the reef, in thirty centimeters of water.
It is the fin of a black tip shark. They are very numerous in the area.
The fauna is exuberant: birds, fish and shellfish. Malou takes pictures of everything. At the end of the island, a large community of gannets has established its base camp. It is a delight to observe the young in their nests, similar to "cheerleader" nests, with a beak. The blue is so soft that it looks like a color for a child's room.
- "What kind of blue-billed fools are they?"
-" I don't know, but I don't think they are normal crazy people".
Malou laughs. It is the notion of "normal crazy" that amuses her.
Recycling of floats
The plastic waste that pollutes this beautiful beach inspires me a human-ecological mission. Among the rubbish that is frequently found, even in the most isolated places, there are some that could be of service to the poor that are still found in 80% of humanity. This is the case of these foam floats that are used to connect all kinds of fishing gear to the surface of the sea.
I decided to collect those that are in good condition to give them, at random, to poor fishermen. I've noticed many of them doing this with plastic cans, which always end up sinking and people lose their work tools. It will take a little space, but our catamaran is big, and these objects don't weigh much. I would call this activity "fishing with balls"
Beware of grains
We were sitting quietly watching a movie when an unexpected bad moment occurred. A disturbance, a kind of big squall of two hours, sends us a strong south wind which immediately raises a nasty chop. Then it quickly became real waves, which pushed the stern of Catafjord, our catamaran, only a few dozen meters from the reef. The night is dark, the anemometer is stuck at thirty knots, and the white foam fringe seems ready to tear us apart at the slightest failure
Fortunately, our anchor is excellent. But it's no joke at the moment. Also, an increased surveillance of the weather each morning is decreed without delay. And, at dawn, Catafjord moved without delay to a more suitable place.
During this short trip, our fishing line takes the opportunity to invite a guest. A shark of a little more than one meter, with a large sharp smile, slender and vigorous.
Malou prepares it immediately in a court-bouillon, accompanied by this mayonnaise that the whole world is jealous of: a feast! And there is still enough for seven or eight meals
The bad weather persists
The weather forecast is ugly. A low-pressure system is forming in the south, bringing strong winds and heavy skies. This time, we are well positioned. It should go well.
We adopted the kayak as our main mode of transportation, because it is very convenient to cross the reefs and to do a bit of ball fishing. Malou continues tirelessly to collect images. In this wild universe, life flows naturally. Every moment is fully occupied with all those little things that we neglect in the hectic of a modern life. Here, the details are the essential.
We are not totally isolated, thanks to our satellite radio phone, which allows us to send and receive some e-mails. We have not broadcasted it much, because the speed is low and the cost of the connection minutes high.
The low-pressure center that settled in the south of the Chagos is becoming a tropical storm, and will probably evolve to the envied status of a cyclone Low ceiling, gray, lots of rain, windy (but not stormy, here).
Visit of the authorities
We were confined to the interior of the lagoon. A big red boat, the "Pacific marlin", arrived and kept us company for 24 hours. They are the British authorities. They come to inspect us on board of a semi-rigid and control our residence permit.
Finally the weather is getting better. We can resume the excursions. The shark of last week has almost completely deserted the freezer. We have to consider a new fishing campaign.
It's the dinghy that drags the lures this time. The resource is so abundant that it bites in a few minutes only. Unfortunately it is too heavy, and our leader is carried away instantly. No matter, we go back on board to rig stronger. And I set a very nice trap with a big hook that a Polynesian friend had given me in Huahine when I repaired his aluminum boat. In less than a minute, a ten-meal barracuda climbs into the fridge!
Imelda becomes a cyclone
The depression is moving away by becoming a hurricane. But its effects remain limited here, and we can consider a small trip to Solomon.
A short dive before leaving the site, but with all these sharks, I am not very motivated to hunt, especially since fishing is going well. However, a beautiful speckled grouper struts in front of Malou's camera. And me, I didn't catch many groupers, although it is rather tasty. I decided to go down, to put my arrow in the middle of its skull. Bingo, the creature didn't wriggle any more than a lump of butter in the sun, and didn't shed a drop of blood, which allowed me to bring it back on board without attracting the sharks.
It is resolved, tomorrow we leave for another authorized atoll, a few miles to the East.
First really beautiful day in Boddam
We have been there for two days. Imelda sent us rain and wind, delaying our discovery of the charms of this island.
The bottom is covered with coral and there are few places to put an anchor. On the other hand, travelers who passed through here before us in previous years, girdled some beautiful coral spats with chains, creating solid "moorings".
In the past, Boddam was home to a whole community, living in a very pretty village, mainly from the exploitation of copra. There are still many remains, which are inexorably being overgrown by vegetation. Then, some visiting boaters had erected on these ruins some rudimentary installations outside the law (the English regulations formally forbid it). This was done to facilitate barbecue evenings, which are also a source of joy for the mosquitoes.
Coconut crabs proliferate at their ease and reach respectable proportions here. Unfortunately, it is forbidden to take them as pets and to house them in a basin of water with fire underneath. It's a pity, because it is said that it is really good for you
It's the good life of the yachtsman in stopover!
Since the good weather has arrived, life has been flowing like a dream. A little bit of maintenance work, a lot of diving, a few kayak trips to visit other motus, a little trolling in a dinghy
Back from a fishing trip outside the lagoon, it is necessary to clean the ten kilos of fish caught. This is what Malou undertakes, installed in the dinghy suspended from its davits. The operation quickly attracted a dozen sharks. Three or four "red snappers" of good size compete for the offal with the sharks, which are a little less lively than them.
In spite of the satisfying booty of the day, it comes to me the idea to catch one without wetting me, well lurking in the skirt, my crossbow in the hand
A greedy guy shows up. I immediately shoot my arrow at him and it pierces him from side to side! Yesss! For a moment, the sweet taste of victory rises to my lips. Alas, the next moment brings me the resounding slap in the face and with a loud crash, the one given to the rude kid in the last century
The bug, incensed to find itself decorated with this cumbersome tie clip, has just spun at full force towards the bottom, unbalancing me to the point of making me drop my gun!!! And I remain there stunned, without fish, without arrow, without gun.
Disarmed!
Malou is motivated to try to locate my hunting equipment. And in fact, after having scanned the bottom for a few minutes, she ends up spotting both of them.
Impossible then to escape my part of the mission: to go down to eight meters to look for these two bazarseuros
At the price of a considerable effort, I manage, with my head in a vice, to take my equipment. No news of the fish though.
Already the preparations of the next departure occupy our minds: an attractive weather window opens in front of us with the breathlessness and the distance of Imelda. I am tempted to take advantage of it.
We left our "potato", to spend the last night in Chagos at the anchorage, just in front of the pass. This way, we can leave early, without waiting for the sun to be high. The weather is beautiful, the wind is light, an engine is purring nicely in its box. Here we go again.
