A trip to the South ! Corsica from Bonifacio to Ajaccio

Let's dream a little and forget the ambient gloom by sailing along the west coast of Corsica. A change of scenery guaranteed, sun, warm water and the smell of scrubland and maquis.

Corsica is full of superb natural sites to discover during a cruise. To cruise along Corsica is to discover this magnificent island off the beaten track, to be amazed by the sheer cliffs, the deep coves and the islets bathed in an emerald sea.

There are three main areas of navigation:

We will tackle them one after the other, encouraging you to discover the little corners of paradise. You have the program, let's go!

Falaises de Bonifacio
Cliffs of Bonifacio

From Bonifacio to Ajaccio

Coming from the Lavezzi archipelago, this little paradise on earth, and after a last swim in the lagoon of Spérone, we head for the "Bouches de Bonifacio", one of the windiest places in Europe, with a little thought for the crew of the Semillante who was shipwrecked there in 1855..

1 - Bonifacio

The marquis of Tuscany, Boniface, who took a foothold there in the 9th century, gave his name to the city, but it was the Genoese who built the 3 km long rampart that still protects it. The advantage of the boat is the unique spectacle of the old city perched high above the cliffs, the famous staircase of the king of Aragon, the caves dug in the limestone... Great !

It is the originality of this southern tip, the limestone. For the southern tip of Corsica is a vast limestone plateau abutting against the sea, which has cut into it the famous white cliffs that contrast with the blue of the sea and the green of the scrubland. Everywhere else in the island, it is the granite which dominates.

Bonifacio vu d'en bas
Bonifacio seen from below

Let's leave this magnificent natural harbor, a beautiful cove of almost 2 M long used since the Antiquity, in direction of the bay of Figari and the gulf of Valinco.

Entrée de Bonifacio
Entrance to Bonifacio

2 - Bay of Figari

The discovery of Corsica is done progressively from anchorage to anchorage. The small anchorage of Pianotolli - Caldarello is perfect in this register. At the foot of the tower set in a chaos of colored blocks in front of the beach of Saint-Jean or more exactly the "piagha di San Ghjuvà" between tamarisk, gorse, juniper and mastic trees, you can enjoy this remarkable anchorage.

After having explored the bay of Figari, we go up towards the gulf of Valinco, then the one of Ajaccio.

According to the anchorages, the coast is more or less wild, but always very green with a dense maquis and, in the background, the mountains which stand out in successive plans. The Genoese towers follow one another... As for the buildings, they are well integrated and not very visible from the sea.

3- Cala di Roccapina

This anchorage with the Monk Islands (Grand Moine and Petit Moine) in the background is just beautiful. At Roccapina the beach is like its name, soft as the caress of water on white sand. At the top of the rocky peak, a chaos of debris and rocky walls reminiscent of a reclining lion seems to watch over the coast. A little lower down on the rocky ridge stands the tower of Roccapina which provides a nice view of the reefs of the Monks and the foothills of the Cagna massif.

Plage de Rocacapina
Beach of Rocacapina

4- Cala di Conca

The beach of the Cala de Conca (Commune of Sartène) is part of these very beautiful beaches of the south of Corsica. Accessible only on foot or by boat, this wild beach offers a unique setting. It is located in a beautiful narrow bay, well protected from the winds (but little from the W winds and the swell of the same sector). It is possible to anchor so close to the beach (without disturbing other beach users) that it is possible to go there by foot.

The bottom is made of sand around the beach and in the center of the cove. The rock that descends on the sides borders the bottom on both sides, which gives the water colors between turquoise and darker blue.

The mooring is reduced so you have to arrive first (especially in summer) or try June or September..

Cala di Conca
Cala di Conca

5- Cala d'Agulia

After going around the point and the lighthouse of Sénétosa, we go to the cala of Agulia. It is certainly the narrowest anchorage in South Corsica. At the end of a 200 m long corridor, this beautiful, deep and narrow cove is open to you. Accessible by calm sea.

It is with this last "cala" that we finish the series of small anchorages not always accessible, but with a certain charm and beauty.

Le phare de Sénétosa et ses deux tours
The lighthouse of Senetosa and its two towers
Cala d'Agulia
Cala d'Agulia

6 - Port Pollo

A little picnic in Capinero and a technical stop in the great little port of Port Pollo to stretch your legs and fins... thanks to the diving club

7 - Cove of Stagnola - Penisula di l'Isuleda

After a good night, we laze around a bit more, stopping in the Stagnola cove and the Isolle peninsula before reaching Ajaccio to take shelter..

Anse de Stagnola
Cove of Stagnola
La baie d'Ajaccio vu du Sud
The bay of Ajaccio seen from the South

Our anchorage in the bay of Ajaccio offered us a spectacular sunset on the Sanguinaires Islands, so we decided to go around by boat.

This group of islands borders the northern entrance of the Gulf of Ajaccio. Their name probably comes from the danger they represent: indeed, the rocks and jagged reefs on the open sea side let you imagine the state of the sea when there is a west wind...

La Paratta Torra
La Paratta Torra
Phare de la Grande Sanguinaire
Lighthouse of the Grande Sanguinaire

8- Ajaccio

Founded in the 15th century by the Genoese, the city of Ajaccio was a modest port when Corsica passed into the hands of the French in the 18th century, even as Napoleon Bonaparte was born!

Having climbed all the steps of the power, this last will not be ungrateful towards his native city and raises it capital of the island in 1811, to the detriment of Bastia.

Difficult to escape from "Napoleomania" in Ajaccio

Maison de naissance de Napoléon
Birthplace of Napoleon

Moored at the foot of the old town, near the citadel, we are in the port Tino Rossi ... Another unavoidable local figure. We can easily walk through the streets and alleys of the imperial city, get lost in the city, go to the beach, and venture inland... This other Corsica absolutely beautiful!

Chemin mulletier
Mulletier path

In our cruise suite we will go from Ajaccio to Calvi, through the Scandola reserve, the Girolata without forgetting the calanques of Piana and many other small paradisiacal places.

In the meantime, Godspeed!

More articles on the theme