Glengarriff Cove and Dunboy Castle will remain for us the highlights of our Irish cruise.
We still had two highly recommended ports of call to try out before leaving pretty Bantry Bay. In contrast to the grandiose, uncluttered landscapes we'd already admired, Glengarriff Cove and Dunboy Castle gave us a different view of Ireland.
Glengarriff, a lush, charming setting in a perfectly sheltered anchorage
This time, as we leave the anchorage, we round Whiddy Island to the east, leaving Bantry Harbour to starboard. A wide turn to the south of the two small islets called Chanel Island is necessary to avoid the mussel-growing area to the south-east of Whiddy Island.
Like every islet we've skirted so far, sheep are brought in, protected by natural boundaries to graze on fat grass. We have spectators with monosyllabic expressions to comment on our maneuvers!
A handful of miles separate us from Glengarriff cove, where we can arrive by day or night, thanks to luminous side markers leading to the anchorage area to the north of the cove. The currents are insignificant and the tidal range very low. Mooring takes place on a 4 to 8-metre mudflat, and visitor lockers are available. Shellfish farms are located at the entrance and in a small area to the east.
At the far end of the cove, above the mooring area, runs the national road linking the town of Bantry to Castletownbere (east to west axis to the north of Bantry Bay). Alongside the road, a large, luxurious hotel adds a cosy touch to the décor.
A quay accommodates a number of fishing boats as well as tourist vessels, where you can moor your dinghy at the foot of the stone staircase so as not to impede traffic.
A privileged natural environment.
The cove is generously planted with trees, as are the numerous islets lining the indented, verdant coastline, where pretty second homes have been discreetly integrated into the landscape.
The exceptionally mild microclimate, sheltered from strong winds, has created an environment conducive to semi-tropical vegetation: clumps of rhododendrons, tree ferns and giant eucalyptus trees. If the flora has developed amply, the fauna is not to be outdone: the seals that populate much of Bantry Bay are particularly happy in Glengarriff cove, where every rock rounded by erosion is topped by its occupant basking in the sun.
Many species of sea and freshwater birds live here, including grey herons, kingfishers and crested cormorants.
A coastal footpath (a rare commodity in Southern Ireland) has been laid out for pedestrians between the landing stage (tourist shuttles or annex) and the town.
It runs along the coast through lush vegetation to the center of Glengarriff village, passing a children's playground and the "blue pool", a small cove with clear water inviting you to swim or explore by kayak.
The rather touristy village stretches along a main street with pubs, restaurants and souvenir stores: you're bound to find the merino sweater of your dreams!
Garinish Island, in the middle of the cove, is home to an Italian-style botanical garden.
This tourist attraction offers an unusual visit with magnificent views over the whole of Glengarriff cove, especially from the top of the round tower built at the highest point of the site.
Dunboy Castle: a Celtic fairytale setting for an enchanting anchorage.
Leaving Glengarriff Cove, we continue sailing in Bantry Bay, still with a northerly breeze, along the north coast, on starboard tack, under genoa and mainsail aloft. When we reach the Roancarrigmore lighthouse, enthroned on the rocky islet of the same name, we take Bearhaven sound again.
To port, we leave the entrance to Lawrence Cove marina, then pass the wreck of a ship whose masts protrude above the surface.
After passing Castle Town and Dinish Island to starboard, we approach a small indentation marking an angle between the end of Bearhaven sound and the entrance to Pipers Sound at the foot of Dunboy Castle.
The entrance to the anchorage is marked by a channel buoy on the port side (from Pipers Sound), which should be left to starboard, keeping a safe distance from Dunboy point and anchoring in 3 to 4 meters of water on a muddy bottom.
The view of the castle surrounded by wilderness is enchantingly beautiful, and the peacefulness of the setting plunges you into the heart of legendary Celtic myths.
You can disembark on a stony beach and take a path to the left, leading to ruins on Dunboy Point. Continuing a little further through the tall grass, a well-maintained coastal path runs along the coastline almost to the front of Ardnakinna point lighthouse on Bere Island.
Don't forget your shrimp net: a small cove halfway along is full of "bouquets" well hidden under the seaweed lining the pebble beach.
Glengarriff cove and Dunboy Castle anchorage are both perfect shelters and unusual, relaxing stopovers for sailors who have come to face the "mood swings" of the Irish climate...
