Stopovers in north-east Brazil: from Jacaré to Fortaleza

City of Natal - Northeastern tip of Brazil © Malou Montésinos

The "Nordeste" region is a meeting place for boats from many horizons. You'll come across those who are bending their transatlantic route towards the West Indies to visit this fascinating country. Others have almost completed their circumnavigation, arriving from St. Helena or Capetown. Then there are the sailors who pass each other on their way down or up the Brazilian coast.

Jacaré, an ever-popular stopover

This French-run marina is an essential port of call. Travelers entering the country will find efficient assistance and invaluable information on formalities.

Marina Jacaré
Marina Jacaré

In addition to the many services and security provided by the marina, it's also a meeting place for crews and an occasion for festive evenings.

Farniente and maintenance work

Jacaré has a particularly emblematic local specialty... Every evening, at sunset, music emanates from the stilt bar area set up a little upstream from the anchorage. The sound of Ravel's boléro soars to the heavens, while the sun itself descends and begins to wallow on the horizon. As if to celebrate its demise, Gounod's Ave Maria continues the program, which is not only that of the week, but remains on the bill for a lifetime! And yet, this particular piece is the object of a veritable cult following, attracting several hundred fans to the terraces every âeurossunsetâeuros.

The beautiful city of Natal lies at the northeastern tip of the country

The nearby river offers free mooring for 3 days, with access to the yacht club. This city of 700,000 inhabitants is not without interest. Its immense beaches and white sand dunes make it one of Brazil's main tourist destinations. The Fort des Rois Mages, built in 1598 to fight the French, is a beautiful star-shaped bastion.

A few kilometers' walk along the beach leads to a lively, picturesque craft center.

Take a detour to the fishermen's quarter to stock up on delicious prawns and a variety of other shellfish and fish.

Possibly rough seas at the exit...

As you head out to sea, as soon as you cross the jetties, the river meets the dancing sea... The shallows can create uncomfortable troughs, especially when the trade winds blow vigorously. Ideal for mooring up without delay.

Fortaleza, a convenient stopover between Natal and Amazonia

The climate and numerous beaches are definite assets for this region. Daytime and night-time entertainment are varied. But the choice of anchorages and moorings is limited. And, as in many large cities, in Fortaleza (population 2.5 million) the usual safety precautions must be observed. Although projects are underway, Marina Park Hotel remains the only good place to "store the canoe" while visiting Fortaleza. Unfortunately, the price/quality/service ratio is variable.

On the other hand, the marina is well situated for a sightseeing trip. In the city, you'll find hundreds of buildings over twenty storeys high. Often very posh, tiled from top to bottom, they are generally located just a few dozen metres from the favelas, home to people living on two dollars a day...

A visit to the Mercado Central is a must

This huge, multi-level covered market specializes in local handicrafts. The charming Iracema district is a favorite haunt of artists and intellectuals.

And let's not forget the Dragao Da Mar cultural center, remarkable for its architecture and exhibitions.

It's possible to end the day at the Pirata Bar, a very famous place, but which has probably become too touristy.

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