Almost 500 kilometers long, the Saône River presents many different faces and landscapes to the river boater. The most downstream portion, which connects Mâcon to Lyon, is about 83 kilometers long and ends in the recently renovated Lyon district called Confluence.
It is the eponymous museum - Musée des Confluences - which marks the fusion of the two rivers, the Rhône and the Saône.
Permanent and attentive monitoring
" This section of the Saône is quite frequented by commercial boats "Philippe Costeur, who was kind enough to guide us along our journey on the Saône, explains. " It is important to keep an eye on the road and to observe the other users. This is not a stressful situation because, along the way, you will come across beautiful landscapes and pleasant hidden corners. Then, the numerous tables that we will cross will be as many occasions to make a well deserved greedy pause. "
After passing Mâcon, there are no more "long term" boat rental companies, at most daily rentals of small boats. This remains an opportunity to change the pace of the cruise.
" There are no less than ten speed zones on this stretch of the river where you can practice water skiing, wakeboarding and other activities. These zones are all marked and signposted. In addition, the speed limit is 30 km/h on the the whole course except for Macon and Lyon where the speed limit is 12 km/h . "And there is no shortage of speed checks.
The passage of Macon must be done with caution
" In Mâcon, come and greet Saint Nicolas ( Patron saint of boatmen ) under the Saint Laurent bridge. Two cities face each other here, Mâcon on the right bank and Saint-Laurent on the left bank. There is a very large pleasure boat dock in the center of town, ideal during the day for shopping. I do not recommend it at night, it is very noisy and not very conducive to rest "alert Philippe.
Things are not necessarily easier when leaving downtown Macon. "A fter crossing the second bridge, you leave the city center and arrive at the level of the commercial port of Mâcon. There, it is not rare to cross very big convoys (135 meters long) which maneuver and leave different depots. They have priority and do not always see the small boats. This area does not offer any stops for boaters, so it is necessary to cross it as quickly as possible, but with the maximum of prudence "He has already had to cross this rather inhospitable section of the river many times.
Numerous opportunities to get away from it all
" The things are a little complicated until the passage of the bridge of the highway A406, then we arrive in the first haven of peace, the island Damprun. One passes it by leaving it on its left, by following the beaconing in place. In the passage, I advise to slow down to look at the birds and the flora of this peaceful place after what we have just lived "explains the boater.
" At kilometre marker 74, there is a sand pit with no services other than the possibility of anchoring and landing in the heart of silence and relaxation "explains our guide. The quintessence of river navigation in short. The advantage of this place is that there is a bottom and it is - obviously - sandy, so anchoring is easy.
A little further on, at Crêches-sur-Saône (PK 72) " there is a camping pontoon. It is possible to moor there and to go to the snack bar of the campground. Even more interesting for trying new sensations, the nearby lake offers towed ski lifts and a myriad of water activities for all ages. "This is probably a good opportunity to stop for a day and a short overnight stay on another body of water.
" A few hundred meters further on, upstream from the D7 bridge, there is a simple wooden pontoon, without service and with caution. "
Be careful when arriving at Saint Romain des îles, it is absolutely necessary to respect the signage in place. " Do not take the right diversion, it is dangerous and full of pitfalls. Go to the left, a simple pontoon, made of wood and without service, is available and accessible on the right bank. Not to be confused with the private one at the restaurant, after the bridge! "warns Philippe.
A surprise arrives, past PK 6.36 (Thoissey bridge). " Take the left bank, pass under the bridge - maximum air draft 3 meters. Continue on the course of the Chalaronne for about 50 meters. Here is a pontoon with water and electricity, in a quiet and shady place. The space is quite short to maneuver, so you have to go with the same gentleness as the place. "explains Philippe Costeur.
" The google satellite image is misleading to those looking, the barge that was on site, the indus, has been moved. "
Back in the bed of the Saône, the campsite's pontoon can accommodate small boats of less than 8 meters.
The lock of Dracé appears to you at kilometer 62. It is both a dam and a lock, of large gauge. The mooring is done on non-floating bollards. " On the way down, let it run from the top, on the way back up, go from bollard to bollard. "explains the regular visitor. A few kilometers before arriving, contact the lock keeper on the way VHF 20 to make sure that the airlock is available or not.
One kilometer further on is the old lock, whose access is forbidden and dangerous.
At point 57, you can admire the island of Genouilleux, " following the markers carefully, as there are many obstacles underwater. As a reminder, 20 meters from each beacon at least and, here, at a reduced speed to see the possible obstacles coming before the collision "says Philippe.
At Belleville-sur-Saône (PK 55) " There is a nice nautical stop with water and electricity available. Next to it is a nice picnic area with tables. "
In Montmerle-sur-Saône, at point 52, there is a large floating pontoon in the center of town with some shops in the immediate vicinity. " The rest stop is located 200 meters after the bridge, it is the campsite which manages it and it is with him that it is necessary to see for the payment of the parking in boat "explains the man who has been there several times.
" Passing Montmerle, it is towards the right, in the distance that you must look "explains the passionate " The Beaujolais mountains are revealed before your eyes, it is very beautiful to see ". Not to be missed, therefore.
Villefranche sur Saône arrives at KP 42. " One passes initially by 4 or 5 kilometers of industrial zone. Then the river stop is in the city center, convenient to make shopping, but that remains a big city, therefore it is rather noisy and agitated the night. "
A beautiful place is hidden at PK 31. The pontoon of Trévoux. " Trévoux is a city all in height to visit absolutely. There is a church, a ruined castle. And, above all, a breathtaking view on the Saône and the Saône valley. Trévoux was a very rich city in the past, it was the world capital of the gold wire drawing industry " recommends Philippe who continues " Disadvantage of this pontoon, there is navigation night and day, one can be rocked and it is necessary to have well arranged its fenders, because some do not slow down. "
Pass the Government Island and the Pradelle Island " for the pleasure of taking your time at this place "explains Philippe.
" At Port Bernard (PK 26), an old lock has been converted, at the northern level of Ile Beyne. There are pontoons (for boats up to 8m), perpendicular to the flow ".
On the right bank, in Saint-Germain-au-Mont-d'Or, is the Rhone yacht club. " It is a private pontoon on which it is possible to stay for the night. The place is particularly pleasant and the reception very sympathetic "recommends Philippe. Tip: the port closes at night, so don't plan to go out too late. " Next door is Le Yacht pontoon with a small boatyard and fittings for outboards. "This can always help.
KP 18 marks not only the arrival at the Rochetaillée lock ( lock number 1 on the Saône ), it is also the place of a mooring pontoon. And, very important, it is from this lock that the day before VHF on the channel 18 becomes mandatory .
In Fontaine-sur-Saône, after the bridge over the D51, there is a dock without any services, on the left bank. " Lots of shops nearby though, so the location is convenient ."
Approaching Lyon, at kilometer 10, is the Ile Barbe. " It is possible to sneak onto the right bank to access the restaurants, which have their own pontoons, even though it is not possible to go up this channel completely "warns Philippe. From this island, the speed is limited à 12 km/h .
Passing the communes, no mooring as such until Lyon.
In Vaize, quai du commerce, there is a superb pontoon in excellent condition and with a lot of space. And for good reason, it is reserved to the boats of the Voies Navigables de France . " When there is, which is exceptional! "Philippe is amused - a little annoyed.
We arrived in Lyon. " There are so many things to do and see that the best thing to do is to moor before Fourvière, on the quay just after the Perrache bridge, and visit the old town ".
Arrived at the halt confluence, we arrive at Confluence, at the PK 1.5. Very beautiful nautical halt with all the public transport in the vicinity. " It is ideal for visiting the city "explains Philippe " Better than the one in Perrache. Ideally, I recommend to take the vaporetto in Confluence to visit the old Lyon, it doesn't cost more than a metro ticket and you stay in the nautical spirit. "
It is at this precise point that the Saône and the Rhône meet, forming a flagrant difference, seen from the sky, in the color of the water.
Tips and advice from locals
One of the difficulties of rivers heavily used by commercial vessels is refueling. " Fuel can be found in the port of Macon and before the confluence, where a barge distributes fuel. "
In Lyon, it is normally forbidden to dock anywhere other than in Perrache and Confluence. " At least not for a whole night "warns Philippe.
" There are many gravel pits or sand pits still in activity on the route. It is necessary to pass them as far as possible from their entrances and by watching the movements of the barges, because they do not necessarily see you ". Wise advice from Philippe.
" Very pretty, Beyne Island passes through a very narrow channel, all the more reason to be careful and take your time when passing through its south. "
" Ile Roy, is a very wooded and inhabited place. There are many restaurants and guinguette. To get there, take the ferry on the right bank because you can't moor on the island itself. "
And the agapes?
One could not talk about this region and not talk about stomachs!
" In Collonges au Mont d'Or, you can moor to go to the island and eat in Paul Bocuse's restaurant which is located only 150 meters from the pontoon. "Philippe tested, Philippe recommends!
Past the Collonges bridge, we arrive at the Abbey of Collonges, another of the master chef's restaurants. " There are no moorings for small boats here, only dolphins for liners "explains the guide.
In Saint-Romain-des-îles, on the left bank, there is the private pontoon of the " restaurant du Pont ". The specialty, the frog legs, that Philippe recommends!
" In Jassans-Riottier at PK 40.5 there is a pontoon and a marina. And a restaurant, l'embarcadère, which is also worth a visit ."
Guide preferences
For Philippe, on this stretch of the Saône, " two places stand out, either for the beauty of the landscapes, the welcome or the places. Montmerle, in the foreground for the landscapes on the Beaujolais mountains. And then Trévoux, for the history and the richness, both literally and figuratively, of the city. "concludes our guide.
