Auxerre, Nevers, Guédeloneuros Castle The Nivernais canal is full of places that everyone knows without knowing exactly where they are on a map of France. And for good reason, the north of Burgundy is both close to the big cities and close to the countryside.
At the end of the 18th century, it was necessary to find an efficient way to transport wood from the forests of Burgundy to the capital. The idea came up to link the Loire and Yonne basins. With the revolutionary years coming to an end, the Nivernais Canal was finally officially opened in 1841.
This beautiful canal is presented to us by Renaud Cavelan. Renaud is the manager of the port of Châtel-Censoir since 2015. His great-grandfather was captain and owner of this port in the 30s. As much to say that Renaud has water of the channel which runs in the veins!
Yonne or Seine ?
Does the Nivernais Canal connect the Seine to the Loire or the Yonne to the Loire?
At Montereau-Fault-Yonne the Seine and the Yonne meet. Here, the Seine has an average flow of 80 m3/second for a catchment area of 10,100 km2, and the Yonne has an average flow of 93 m3/second for a catchment area of 10,836 km2. According to the rules of hydrology, the river with the greatest flow receives the water from the other. Here, therefore, it is indeed the Yonne that receives the Seine and the river that flows at the feet of the Eiffel Tower should have been called the Yonne.
But history decided otherwise : The Nivernais canal links the Loire to the Yonne !
Nature at the gates of Paris
" From Paris Bercy station "explains Renaud " the station of Châtel-Censoir is two hours away. One can thus easily come for the weekend, visit at the same time the canal and the surroundings "he adds.
The Burgundy Region has had the excellent idea of creating, on the canal website, a selection of themed stopovers that will allow boaters to choose what they will visit on the canal during the day(s) of the cruise.
Thus, we can find the following ports of call:
- Vineyards
- Villages
- Floating
- Nature
- Confluence
Each of these itineraries will lead the traveler to discover buildings, places or practices that made the Nivernais Canal.
A not so forgotten region
Renaud explains that the frequentation of his nautical stop remains quite stable, appreciated by the international clientele, in particular from Australia and New Zealand. "They find in Burgundy the image of what they are looking for in France, authenticity, welcome and simplicity. And good food! "reports Renaud.
Without it being known, the region is actually very well known, at least in the movies. " The scene of the upside down DS in the movie Rabbi Jacob was shot at the Saussois rocks in Merry-sur-Yonne. And the Château de Follain was used as a shooting location for the movie La grande vadrouille "explains the specialist.
Cruise between heritage and nature
The Burgundy region has developed an entire website dedicated to the Nivernais canal. It is an essential site to prepare your walk. It lists the rental companies, the stages, the tips euros " A real tourist guide, totally free "says Renaud.
Moreover, there is no lack of activities along the canal. Whether it is activities on the canal itself, on the nearby Yonne or just a few kilometers away by bike, there is always something to do in this part of France.
Golf in Crain ( 9-hole compact course ), a surprising tour of the washhouses of Châtillon-en-Bazois or a discovery of the Nivernais canal in Alluy by horse-drawn carriage, everyone will find something to do in this beautiful Burgundy region.
On the water, it is necessary to pass the triple lock of Chavance which, in Achun, makes up for a 6.70 m drop. " Impressive experience to do with your family "explains Renaud.
The port of Junction joins the canal, the Loire and the Yonne. Located at Decize there are fuel, black and grey water pumps. A shipyard is available on site. The port is classified as a blue flag port. Water and electricity are included in the price of the night (from 12 euros).
Another quality stop that should not be forgotten is the one managed by Renaud Cavelan, in Châtel-Censoir . You can find all the classic conveniences, toilets, Wifi and fuel for 12 euros per night. It is possible to fill up with water and to charge the batteries of your boat for 6 euros.
From the port of Châtel-Censoir, it is possible to walk to the Yonne river for a swim. From the port, on the left, go around the white house. Take the small path on the left side of the bridge and join the river.
Near the port, the restaurant l'étape des gourmets is a must before a walk in town, where you can find all the shops. L' church of Châtel-Censoir has a 10th century crypt that is not to be missed.
A Merry-sur-Yonne s, the rocks of Saussois offer to the climbers as well as to the walkers a very nice view on the region.
" The castle of Guédelon has been under construction for years. The principle is that everything is done in the old way, by passionate amateurs. It is a fascinating place to visit to understand how people lived, worked and made things centuries ago "adds the guide.
" On the way " continues Renaud " You have to stop in Cravan, where there is a small, quiet and relaxing harbor. L' abbey of Vézelay can be visited and is a great place to rest and contemplate for those who are into it."
Not to be missed under any circumstances, the two bridge-canals of the Nivernais canal, true masterpieces of engineering. One is located in Mingot and the other in La Roche.
Finally, Auxerre is the big city of the course. " You can find absolutely everything in Auxerre, including of course a very large marina, whose rates vary from 5 euros to 23 euros. All services are available on site, quai de l'ancienne Abbaye. "
The place of dream of the guide?
" The arrival before Decize. It is calm, shaded and soothing. It is a place of dream, one feels alone and in peace "recommends Renaud.
Some navigation tips
" There are two difficulties on the canal " explains the manager. " The first, the algae which, despite the actions of VNF and the attempts of the town halls, are growing more and more, hindering navigation in some places. "
As on many canals, the cessation of commercial traffic allows these invasive plants to develop much more, as the self-propelled vehicles no longer perform their mechanical mowing action.
" The other precaution to be taken concerns flood spillways. There are quite a few of them and all of them create a current that can be important. Don't worry, they are visible, but it is better to remain attentive and cautious when approaching them, as they can push a boat quite strongly. "
Finally, we regret the almost total absence of markers on the entire route which implies a sustained watch and slow navigation.
It is mainly in Saussoie ( weir that pulls very hard on the left ) and at Ogie that one should be careful. The two weirs are particularly active and generate lateral current.
" The 116 locks that regulate the level of the canal are, in summer, all operated by a lock keeper. Out of season, each lock keeper is responsible for 2 or 3 basins "explains Renaud who specifies " Take the time to talk to the lock keepers, they know the canal and what's going on. Most of them are real locals who know all the good tips and tricks, real wells of knowledge! ".
And, for once that humans are still present along a river, it would be a shame to deprive ourselves of this contact!
Open 7 days a week, the locks are in operation from 9h à 12h and 13h à 19h . The lockkeepers communicate with each other to make the docks as smooth as possible. In summer, the department and the region call on students to make the passages even more fluid.
" Running almost parallel to the Yonne, the canal allows you to moor in the wild almost anywhere and to go swimming, less than a hundred meters away, in the river " recommends the connoisseur who warns " summers are very hot, so we might as well take advantage of it. "
" The section between Auxerre and Champs-sur-Yonne is not the most pleasant, it is a rather monotonous straight line "explains Renaud. " Afterwards, things change, we arrive in the nature and the greenery ".
" Few refueling points are present along the canal "explains Renaud. Except in his port where he explains " i take my car to accompany the boaters to the gas station and fill their jerry cans ". The sense of service really exists!
For the pumping of black water there is only Clamecy for the moment, that is equipped.
Finally, as a useful precaution, at Lucy-sur-Yonne . " If it is possible to swim in the Yonne, it is necessary to do it with caution because there are many rapids. "alerts Renaud.
The Nivernais Canal in brief
- Length: 174 kilometers
- Locks: yes, 116
- Speed limit: 8 km/h
- Border crossing : No
- Vignette / navigation tax : Yes
- Managing institution: Voies Navigables de France
- Renters : Les Canalous, Locaboat Holidays, Le Boat, Aquafluvial, France Fluviale, Edge Charter
- Departments : Nièvre and Yonne
- Minimum air draft : 2,70 meters
- Minimum draft : 1,20 meters
- Gauge: Freycinet (38 m x 5.05 m) except between Sardy and Cercy-la-Tour, Becquey gauge (30m x 5.05m)
- Unemployment period: May 1st and July 14th
- Smartphone application ? : No
