Until then, you have observed with respect and detachment this elegant assembly of strands that constitutes a splice... Normal, it is not you who makes them. It is however very useful to know how to realize them.
A splice has many advantages compared to a simple knot:
- We can't undo it anymore. Which prevents certain malicious acts.
- The end retains its full strength, while a knot can lose 30 to 50% of its breaking load.
- No raging phenomenon thanks to the pod.
- Well tapered, the splice easily crosses the davit where the knot is likely to get in the way... and get loose again.
To carry out an anchorage, some values to know before buying your cablot according to the size of your boat:
- 5 to 6.50 m: 10 mm rope and 6 mm chain
- From 6.50 to 9 m: 14 mm rope and 8 mm chain
- From 9 to 12 m: 18 mm rope and 10 mm chain
Your cable can be made of polyester or polyamide. The first is more flexible, a little more expensive, but less resistant than the second. For a diameter of 14 mm, for example, polyester breaks at 3.12 t against 4 for polyamide. The splice is also available without pod. It then allows a"tailor-made" adjustment for your mooring lines. Your sailboat is stowed faster and the cleats are less loaded.
Polyester or polyamide?
Even new, we recognize the second, already steeper. And it doesn't get any better with time. Splicing is easier on polyester. But polyamide retains two shocking arguments: it is 30% stronger and much cheaper: 2,00 € per m in 14 mm against 2,80 € for polyester.
Plastic or stainless steel lug?
The first is cheaper, but it is more sensitive to shocks. After a violent gust of wind, it is not uncommon to find a"marked" pod. For exposed anchorages, prefer stainless steel, which is much more resistant.
Separate the strands
Using the splice or a pair of scissors - if you have chosen polyamide, separate the three strands and make sure that their ends are clean and smooth. Secure the desired length with tape.
First most important passage
With the splice, pass under the strand of the end which is presented to you, flush with the tip of the pod, so as to prepare the passage of the first strand, that of the top will be appropriate. Engage it in the splice, then release the tool and pull on this first strand.
The second strand is just as important
We do it again with the second strand, turning a quarter turn, in the same direction as the first. The groyne prepares this second pass. Attention, not in the same place, but under the second strand of the end, at the same height.
The third strand
Do not lose the wire, take the last strand that is in pain and run it under the third strand at the end, always at the same height as the two others. For a splice without lug, make sure you run this third strand through the loop first. Otherwise, pull to secure the terminal.
Verification!
Stop control! After your first run, check that each strand fits into one of the three strands at the end and that they all come out at the same height, 120° apart. If not, try again. Make this small check at each new pass.
Roll
With each pass, do not hesitate to put your splice in place by rolling it energetically between your hands. For larger diameters, it's under the feet!
Refine
To get a well tapered rat tail splice, refine each strand by cutting two or three wires and make another one or two passes. Be vigilant and concentrated: in case of error, repeating these last passages with these little wires is rather painful.
Cut and burn
To know the length to splice, count 10 times the diameter of the rope by adding 50 mm. Let be a splice of 170 mm for the 12 mm presented here (120 + 50). Using scissors, cut the degreased strands that escape from your splice and burn what protrudes. The ideal tool is the electric cutting iron, but a lighter will also do.
It's over!
Your splice is ready to use! For intensive use, a surliure of 2 times the diameter at the exit of the strands is not useless. For the junction with the chain, prefer a shackle with 6-sided shackle, always to facilitate the passage in the roller.
Splicing without pod
Without a lug, a splice allows you to prepare your mooring lines to measure. The correct length of the buckle is the length from the base of the cleat to the opposite upper end. Allow a little margin anyway!
