The fewer holes you make in a boat the better! One of the best solutions is to use glue putty. It comes in extrudable cartridges, like those used for silicone. The appearance is the same, as is the dirtiness, but the similarity ends there. The marine sealant is most often a polyurethane with excellent elasticity and tear resistance characteristics. It is so strong that it should not be used for a removable assembly.
1 euros A precise layout
Our mission for the day is to attach the stern deck of a utility outboard. It is a plywood panel lined with teak and forms a bench. We start by positioning the panel, then we trace the location of the gluing with a sharpened pencil, which we hold flat to limit the parallax error.
2 euros Smooth tape
Careful protection of the edges of the joint is one of the keys to success. This is done with masking tape that is as smooth and thin as possible. Ideally, waterproof body shop tape should be used.
3 - Hide the edges
First, we protect the edges of the panel. It is necessary to be very precise so that the edge of the paper does not turn over on the surface of gluing, which would not fail to create a crack in the unmasking. It is best to apply the tape leaving an overhang which is then smoothed with a sharp cutter.
4 euros Outside the line
The space where the glue will be applied is then defined. The care taken at this stage determines the final result. It is better to place the ribbon slightly outside the line, rather than inside. This way, there is no risk of digging the line of glue when removing the ribbon.
5 euros Prepare the surface
The material must be clean and frosted. The contact surfaces should be scratched with a relatively coarse abrasive (e.g. 120 to 180 grit) to remove all traces of shine and contaminants and to restore the surface appearance. A good dusting will follow.
6 euros No touch!
Our natural sensuality as manual workers pushes us to touch! However, our fingers leave greasy marks that prevent the products from adhering properly. We should carefully degrease the gluing surfaces and refrain from resting our fingers on them afterwards!
7 euros A quality extruder gun
The price is forgotten, the quality remains. Use a quality extruder gun, i.e. one that does not require too much force, but also one that is easy to stop the pressure. The tip of the nozzle should be beveled.
8 euros Apply the right amount of glue
The glue is first applied to the flat parts, in sufficient quantity to form a bed that will crush when the panel is put in place. It's all in the dosage: with practice, you can estimate the necessary quantity quite well. Too much is a waste and a lot of work to smooth out; not enough and the gluing will lack hold.
9 euros Finishing touch
Once the panel is in place, we make sure that it is well in place and we finish filling the joints with adhesive. To do this, the gun is held almost vertically, so that the product goes deep into the joints and backs up slightly above the surface of the panel.
10 euros Not too much, not too little...
It remains to level the product with a spatula held as flat as possible. By leaning on the masking paper, you can remove any excess product while filling in the gaps. It is crucial to keep a roll of paper available and to wipe the spatula maniacally! The risk of "buttering" everywhere is significant
11 euros At a glance
The best tool for smoothing is the human finger! Choose one of your own with a profile that best matches the curve and coat it with soapy water before gently running it over the joint. If the product has been properly smoothed, this step is only a formality!
12 euros Unmasking without waiting
Remove the masking paper, pulling gently away from the freshly smoothed area. Again, be as careful as possible. Place any soiled adhesive directly in the trash and wipe your fingers as often as necessary...
13 euros No touch (bis)
Let your assembly dry without further intervention and keep curious fingers at bay! This product forms a skin relatively quickly (about one hour) and acquires its full strength in about twelve hours
