Canal de Nantes à Brest : River crossing of Finistère between nature and heritage

© La route de l'Ardoise

Out of the 360 kilometers that the canal runs from Nantes to Brest, about a hundred are located in Finistère. It is in Goariva, at the border with the Côtes d'Armor that we start the descent, until Chateaulin, of this astonishing canal, sometimes wild, sometimes effervescent.

The Nantes-Brest canal crosses historical Brittany, starting in Nantes in the Loire Atlantique region and ending in Chateaulin, in the Finistère region, before rejoining oceanic waters via a final reach on the Aulne maritime.

Le canal de Nantes à brest, dans le Finistère (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)
The canal from Nantes to Brest, in Finistère (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)

The portion that interests us starts in Goariva and extends to Chateaulin, crossing Finistère. It passes through heritage towns such as Chateaulin the crossroads town, Chateauneuf du Faou the medieval one or Spezet the religious one. Several centuries of history unfold along this hundred kilometer long ribbon of water where no less than 46 locks can be found.

The Finistère portion of the canal follows the bed of three rivers, the Alder , l' Hyères and the Kergoat .

A canal combining heritage and nature

The canal is now only used for tourism and leisure activities. In fact, it was completely abandoned until the year 2000. The revival of leisure time and the attraction of slow travel have revived the interest of the Brittany Region for this waterway. In 2019, the Department took over the complete management of the canal which remains the property of both the State and the Region of Brittany.

Since then, improvements and developments have continued to appear along the banks of the canal, providing boaters and walkers along the towpath with more sanitary facilities, more parking and more attractions.

He is the co-president of the association " The road to the Slate "This association, based in Finistère, aims at organizing events around and on the canal. This association, based in Finistère, aims to organize events around and on the canal, to revive both the attraction of the municipalities, institutional actors as well as tourists and boaters. Yannick Daniel is the owner of La Patricia, a barge that he uses to visit the canal in his spare time. And he uses it to "sound out" navigation on the waterway and to ensure that the 80 centimeters of draft remain permanent, in relation with the departmental council.

La péniche Patricia (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)
The barge Patricia (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)

Leaving from Chateaulin, don't miss the visit of the chapel of Kerluan and to admire the passage from the maritime domain to the canalized domain by crossing the Guily-Glaz lock.

From Châteaulin to Pont Coblant (10 locks), we cross many cities and buildings begins Yannick. If the environment is urban " the canal itself retains a wild and old-fashioned, almost bucolic feel "

A Coblant Bridge in this way, it makes room for history and river culture. " The barge Victor is worth a visit. It is a boat that ran aground there in 1932, which is maintained by an association and can be visited. "

Le chaland Victor (Photo : FRCPM-Bretagne)
The barge Victor (Photo : FRCPM-Bretagne)

" We enter a wilder area on the track that joins Pont Triffen "explains Yannick. " We pass about ten locks in all, in the middle of beautiful scenery."

A Chateauneuf du Faou it is a castle that awaits us: " The visit of the castle of Trevarez is worth the detour "says Yannick.

Le château de Trevarez
The castle of Trevarez

A Carhaix the aqueduct of Vorgium, which dates back to the 2nd century AD, is still visible in some places and can be visited freely all year round. The aqueduct of Vorgium, which dates back to the 2nd century A.D., is still visible in some places and can be discovered freely all year round.

l'aqueduc de Vorgium
the aqueduct of Vorgium

One canal, four atmospheres

" On this portion of the canal, four main sections can be identified " exposes Yannick " The very urbanized part from Chateaulin to Pont Coblant, the particularly spectacular portion to Chateaneuf du Faou. Landscape lovers will particularly appreciate the section that will lead them to Pont Triffen. Finally, those who like wild and narrow rivers will have fun until Carhaix "he adds.

Practical navigation

" The canal is very well equipped on the first ten locks starting from Chateaulin. They are all equipped with waiting pontoons upstream and downstream, pontoons on which one can easily stay for a meal, a nap or an overnight stay "explains Yannick. " Of course, parking is free. "

It is therefore not surprising that there are few modern facilities along the Nantes-Brest Canal, " they arrive "The tourist authorities promise that this will be the case.

To make navigation easier on the canal, it is recommended to announce oneself at the lock of Guily-Glaz and to indicate one's intentions of navigation, the characteristics of one's boat, one's plans of parking in order to be followed, all along one's route, by the lock keepers who will allow the different lockings.

By the way, please note that a crank handle is necessary to cross certain structures by yourself. This crank is available for free ( against deposit of 60 euros ) with the agent present in Chateaulin.

" A Navicarte guide is available. It is quite old but shows quite well the geography of the canal, especially the position, on the left when going upstream (thus on the right when going downstream), of the navigation channel. This channel should be taken wide, as the canal tends to silt up "continues the boater.

There is very little signage on this portion of the canal. " It is more reliable to ask the lockkeepers what the pitfalls are on the upcoming reach, the information will be more fresh and reliable "says the connoisseur.

" Navigation is fairly unconstrained, all boats are allowed with an air draft of 3.30 meters and a draft of 80 centimeters. No vignette or tax to navigate here "concludes Yannick.

It should be noted, however, that if navigation is free, the practice of speed water sports ( towed buoy, water skieuros ) is prohibited. The possession of the inland waterways pleasure craft license corresponding to the boat being piloted ( with or without "high level yachting" extension ) is mandatory.

Based on this principle of four divisions of the river, let's see what Yannick can tell us about navigation tips.

It is in Chateaulin that the lock is located which makes the junction between the canal and the maritime Aulne which joins the bottom of the roadstead of Brest. The passage of the lock of Guily-Glaz is done between 8:00 am and 9:00 pm from May 1st to September 30th and on request with the lock staff from October 1st to April 30th. Boats must be present half an hour before the last passage to be allowed to pass through. It is compulsory, upon arrival, to report to the lock keeper, who will take care, if this has not been done before, of noting the planned route and the characteristics of the boat used.

The Port Launay yachting centre offers all the services for yachtsmen ( sanitary, showers, electricity, watereuros ). The access to the Maison de la Plaisance is done by means of a code that you can find on the ticket delivered by the distributor when you buy tokens. Electricity and drinking water are available on the terminals located along the Amiraux Douguet quay in Port-Launay.

The tokens can be obtained from the dispenser located in front of the boaters' house or at the Port Launay tobacco shop. They allow, for 3 euros, to have 4 hours of electricity and water or 4 minutes of hot water in the showers.

In Port Launay always, " there is a beautiful slipway, a self-service black water tank and fuel "says the co-chair.

" Along this stretch, most of the rest stops are being renovated to offer better services to boaters, especially in terms of sanitary facilities "explains Yannick.

When you arrive at Pont Coblan, you will find services again, in particular a kayak base " You have to be careful with them all along the canal, they are silent and, in the bends, they can surprise the boaters. Hence the importance of looking away and reducing speed in low visibility areas "adds Yannick.

" On the following portion which goes until Chateauneuf du Faou, we find some services, in particular in Chateauneuf itself, where we also find a slipway of launching "says Yannick " In this portion ".

On the way to Port Triffen be careful not to get distracted by the beauty of the place, however, you have to keep your left hand carefully to avoid scratching the bottom of the canal. " you really have to turn left in the channel, because the channel can become narrower or silted up in places " This is the only thing offered to boaters on site, no trade or services here " Next to the leisure center of Chateauneuf du Faou, there is a mooring pontoon with electricity and water " The canal reduces in width as it goes along this section, until it reaches a small gauge at Pont Triffen "

When you arrive at Pont Triffen, a slipway is available to boaters. " At the downstream lock of the port of Carhaix, it is possible to moor to the gravel wall, there is a ring every ten meters or so "explains the guide.

" be careful with the draught, it can be strongly reduced. "warns Yannick. Hence, of course, the attention on the left in the channels!

Last piece before going to the Côtes d'Armor, destination the port of Carhaix

" Here, it is better to count on 70 centimeters than 80, for safety "explains Yannick, while specifying " The channel is still narrowing in width. There are no particular pitfalls, even if the bottom tends to silt up slightly, there are no big rocks to worry about. "

It is the particularity of this last section that it has a smaller depth than elsewhere: " The locks are getting closer and closer, so it is wise to keep a crew member in the front of the boat at all times for lock maneuvers. ". Another alert related to this section: " There is no trade in the port of Carhaix, which is located quite far from the city center "

Finally " On the other hand, it is easy to moor, there is a very nice quay with bolards every 20 meters "adds Yannick.

Of course, for safety reasons, this team member will wear his lifejacket permanently during maneuvers in the works .

Même convivial, le passage des écluses nécessite de prendre les précautions de sécurité habituelles ! (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)
Even if it is a friendly experience, the passage of the locks requires to take the usual safety precautions! (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)

" Last lock of Finistère on the canal, that of Goariva. Very nice avoidance zone which allows easy maneuvers, navigation ends here, as it is only partially allowed in the Costarmoric portion of the canal, towards the lake of Guerlédan on about ten locks. "warns Yannick " On the whole of the canal, the towpath is in good condition, so it is possible to moor there, if necessary. Of course, no mooring to the trees or to the structures that we cross".

" A Chateaulin with all the shops and services available, it's a good place to stock up on groceries before sailing for several days at a time. "says Yannick.

L'une des dernières écluses avant les Côtes d'Armor (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)
One of the last locks before the Côtes d'Armor (Photo : La route de l'Ardoise)

Local tips and tricks

" Don't expect to find more services than a restaurant in Coblant Bridge but it deserves to be considered " says Yannick.

" We can, we must, eat at the White Fish Inn. It's a great address on the canal."

" At the lock of L'Aulne (5 above Châteaulin), there is a shed on a part of the canal where the lock keeper stored his boat. It is possible to disembark with barbecue and to visit two small islands which are there, it is one of my favorite places on the canal, one has the impression to have left to the adventure " says the local. " All shops are available in Chateauneuf du Faou . The center is located 900 meters from the canal "

" You really have to take your time on the track after Chateauneuf, it's a calm and soothing area that deserves to be discovered in slow motion. ". Guide tip!

" Arrived at Carhaix if you are looking for a place to eat, you should not miss the Nivernic, a superior restaurant that is directly on the quay, with very easy mooring. There are no shops or services, unfortunately, in the port of Carhaix "explains Yannick.

The Finistère portion of the Nantes-Brest Canal in brief

  • Length 100 kilometers
  • Locks: yes, 46
  • Speed limit: 5 kilometers per hour (4 kilometers per hour in the access passes to the locks)
  • Border crossing : No
  • Vignette / navigation tax : No
  • Managing institution: Department of Finistère
  • Renters: None
  • Departments : Finistère
  • Minimum air draft : 3.30 meters
  • Minimum draught : 0.80 meters
  • Period of unemployment : See the notices to skippers at the Guily-Glaz lock
  • Smartphone application : No
More articles on the theme